Dan's Papers - October 10, 2008 - Simple Art of Cooking

Carpe diem doesn't refer to some kind of fish but Latin for "seize the day." While many South and North Fork farm stands are still open many will close by month's end with a few hanging on until Thanksgiving. It is the moment to enjoy the last of early fall tomatoes whose characteristic sweet, juicy flavors will fade into memory in just a couple of weeks until next summer comes around again.

And how do I like my late season tomatoes? I gave caprese, the classic sliced tomato and mozzarella favorite, a slight twist by using basil puree, taking it to another level to make a deliciously simple salad for lunch or dinner. I also seized the moment when I collected basil leaves from my garden before the freeze to make the puree with extra-virgin olive oil.

I will also ask farmers for tomato seconds which often have no more than a slight blemish or are a bit over ripe. I'll take them home to blanch in hot water so they peel easily and store the tomatoes in the fridge for several days. For a different and delectable pasta course, chop the tomatoes coarsely and cook with sauteed leeks, adding fresh mozzarella and mint. I promise you raves!

Pasquale Langella, mozzarella cheese maker extraordinaire, who holds court every Saturday and Sunday making fresh mozzarella from start to finish, at Tutto Italiano, a Citarella store in East Hampton, provides us with the milky miracle of soft, creamy freshly made mozzarella. Working with whole milk, his hands poetically manipulate the 20-25 pounds of curd for each batch in several additions of hot, 140 degree, water until the curds melt into yards of supple sheets stretched over a stainless steel paddle. Working in gradually cooler waters the meltingly smooth texture of the curds indicate when Pasquale is ready to mold the curd into the familiar mozzarella shape. It is a truly fascinating procedure to watch. Seize the moment to enjoy chunks of Pasquale's heavenly mozzarella straight up with just a drizzle of fine extra-virgin olive oil and freshly ground pepper or team with tomatoes to quell your lust. At least until next summer.

TOMATO AND MOZZARELLA WITH BASIL PUREE
Save the last of your garden fresh basil for this popular salad classic.
Serves 6

For the basil puree
2 cups fresh basil leaves
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3/4 teaspoon coarse (kosher) salt

For the salad
2 large ripe red local tomatoes
2 large ripe yellow local tomatoes
1 pound fresh mozzarella
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
2-3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Extra basil leaves for garnish, optional

1. Place basil puree ingredients in a food processor or blender and process until a soft pesto like consistency. Transfer to a suitable container to refrigerate as necessary. Puree can be prepared up to several days ahead or freeze for up to one month.

2. When ready to serve, rinse and dry tomatoes (mine still had some dirt on them from the farm) and cut into 1/4-inch slices with a serrated knife. Sprinkle tomatoes with salt. Slice mozzarella into as thin as possible slices and season with several grinds of fresh pepper. You should have enough mozzarella slices to alternate between the red and yellow tomato slices. Arrange the slices on serving plates and season each serving with drops of balsamic and a drizzle of olive oil. If basil puree is refrigerated or frozen be sure to bring it to room temperature. With a teaspoon scatter the puree across the center of the tomatoes and mozzarella. Garnish plates with additional basil leaves if desired.

LINGUINI WITH LEEK, TOMATO AND MOZZARELLA
Local farm ingredients marry with fresh mozzarella to team with pasta.
Serves 4-6

2 large leek well washed and sliced thin
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil plus extra for drizzling
2 tomatoes, blanched, peeled and coarsely chopped
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
1 pound linguini
2-3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
3/4 cup grated or chopped mozzarella

1. Remove any bruised outer layers of leek and, at an angle, cut away the dark green to expose light green to white layers underneath. Cut lengthwise from the root ends to halve or quarter each leek, rinse under running water then soak in cold water about 15 minutes. Dry leeks with paper towel and slice thin.

2. Heat oil in a skillet and put in the sliced leek. Saute, stirring occasionally, for 6-8 minutes until tender. Add tomatoes and stir to mix. Season to taste with salt and pepper and cook for 3-4 minutes to blend flavors. Keep warm.

3. Meanwhile bring a large pot of water to the boil and add 2-3 teaspoons coarse salt. Put in the pasta, bring back to the boil, and cook until al dente, about 9-11 minutes; taste for doneness. Add 1/4 cup pasta water to the sauce in the skillet with the leek and tomato. Drain pasta and return to the pot it cooked in. Pour in the leek and tomatoes. Add mint and mozzarella and toss to mix. Taste for salt and pepper then transfer to warm plates and top with a tiny drizzle of olive oil over each serving.