Dan's Papers - October 10, 2008

When I walk into Digger O'Dells, always the welcome is warm and gracious and you can see this happening to everyone coming in. The bar area is everything a bar should be and the dining areas are well spaced and the whole place just seems like a fun place to be, whether you are there primarily to eat or to drink. It really is reminiscent of an Irish or British pub, although most of these do not serve food to Digger's standards. The term 'gastropub' was coined in the UK a few years ago to denote pubs that served food considered to be well above the norm as far as pub food is concerned and Digger's could readily claim that distinction without any degree of argument. However 'gastropub' is a bit affected and Digger's is anything but affected. Here you will find food that satisfies you without emptying your wallet and that is increasingly important in the current economic climate.

The menu may look extensive but owner Stephen Wirth is insistent on everything being fresh and well cooked. We started our meal with one of their specialties, Irish Beer Mussels steamed in 'Dublin's Liffey Water' - that's Guinness Stout to the uninitiated - and finished with cream, garlic and butter and served with some great garlic bread for mopping up duties. Jumbo coconut shrimp were coated with panko breadcrumbs and the result was crisp, tasty and the mustard dipping sauce added an extra zest. Both of these are well recommended as are the famous 'Father Solan' baked clams that we always enjoy but passed on this time in order to try out something different.

Soups at Digger's are hearty and tasty and the special of the house is an unusual combination of hot and sweet sausage with cabbage in a zesty tomato broth, something great for a chilly fall or winter evening.

Knowing the size of the portions here, we skipped the soup and went to the main courses. Again, it is almost a question of being spoilt for choice for it is almost impossible to believe that anyone could not find something appealing to their appetite and tastes. Main courses also come with a choice of soup or salad plus potato and a vegetable selection. Now this is another instance of Digger's beating the norm. Too often 'vegetable selection' means a tired and often excessively al dente melange but not here. We enjoyed to the full the carrot, yellow and green squash that came perfectly cooked with our main course

Meat is very important at Digger's, the prime rib is Black Angus and the dish we enjoyed, the 'smaller' queen cut of only 16oz, compared to the massive 24oz king cut, was everything that roast beef should be. Perfectly cooked as ordered with succulent au jus to bring out the full deep tastes of the beef. I have previously commented that the beef here would grace a specialty steak house and again this was true. The insistence on quality extends to the burgers which are also made from this Black Angus meat.

For our other main course we selected one of the Irish specialties, chicken pot pie. I am an unashamed lover of all forms of meat and chicken pies and this one was full of taste with a bottom pie crust filled with a mixture of white meat chicken, carrots, peas, celery, onions and mushrooms in a creamy sauce topped with very good mashed potatoes. A simple dish, again one that I grew up with. Albeit in a slightly different format, and this was a very good example of how simplicity and good ingredients are always the best.

There was little space left to explore the dessert offerings but we did just make a taste of a very large portion of a Bailey's chocolate cake that was great.

Go on line to diggerspub.net to see all the specials they offer because it may be Italian night or BBQ night or seafood or steak night. Happy Hour is from 4 to 6pm Monday to Friday with a special bar menu and there is live music on Thursday and Friday and recently Stephen introduced a Country and Western band that was so well received that they will probably be featured on the last Saturday of each month. On October 20 to 27, Riverhead will be staging its own 'Restaurant Week' and Digger's will be participating in this with special offerings, including a prix fixe of $21.95 which will also be available as a wine or beer pairing for $28.95.