Silvia Lehrer's Cooking Column

In a new cook book, The Berghoff Family Cook Book, Celebrating a Century of Entertaining, Andrews McMeel Publishing, a piece of Chicago history has been documented in this 2007 tome, based on the Berghoff Family restaurant.

I'm intrigued by family history and traditions, and found the story of Herman Joseph Berghoff of Dortmund, Germany, fascinating. At the age of 17 the young Herman Joseph arrived in New York in 1870. The story is one of the classic immigrant, working a variety of jobs to help bring members of his family across the ocean from the "old country." One by one three brothers joined Herman in the United States which eventually led to establishing Herman Berfghoff Brewing Co., Berghoff Dortmund-style beer made in the tradition of Berghoff's home town.

With marriage, family and children the resourceful Herman overcame the difficulty of obtaining a wholesale liqueur license to sell his beer. He applied for a retail license, which entitled him to sell food and drink - in a café. Even prohibition didn't stop Herman Berghoff. He reformulated the beer to stay within the confines of alcohol level, sold soda pops and the popular Berghoff root beer float. Herman's sons joined the business in the 30's, and with hard work, turned the business into a full-scale restaurant and a Chicago institution. The rest as they say is history.

The restaurant closed its doors in February 2006, paving the way for Jan Berghoff, grandson Herman's wife, and their daughter Carlyn, who graduated from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York and owner of her own catering firm, to record the Berghoff family recipes in a cook book. Mouthwatering German classics abound with Wiener schnitzel (one of my favorite things to eat), German fried potatoes, sauerbraten, apple strudel and black forest cake. Some of the more contemporary offerings are shrimp martini, black olive tapenade, salmon cakes with ancho chili dressing, panko crusted goat cheese salad and berry shortcake with lemon Chantilly cream, Carlyn's influence continues with a section in the book on menus for party planning, tips for hassle free gatherings and even how to host a bourbon party. The fourth generation continues.

Now if only I can get some great veal for the schnitzel.

BABY SPINACH SALAD WITH PANCETTA AND ROASTED SHALLOT VINAIGRETTE
Carlyn's inspiration for this salad came from her grandmother's hot bacon dressing for the old-fashioned salad of young dandelion greens.
Serves 6

6 slices pancetta
3 medium-sized shallots, minced
2 fresh thyme sprigs
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/3 cup red wine vinegar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
12 cups baby spinach, well-washed and dried (12 ounces)
12 cherry tomatoes, halved, for garnish
1/4 cup shredded Parmesan cheese for garnish

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

1. In a 12-inch skillet, cook the pancetta over moderate heat until crisp, about 8 minutes. Transfer the pancetta to paper towels to drain, and set aside. Do not clean the fat from the skillet.

2. Place the shallots and thyme in the skillet and sautee over medium heat for 4 minutes, until tender. Add the oil and vinegar, and mix; season with salt and pepper. Cover the dressing and set aside until ready to serve. Remove the thyme sprigs before serving.

3. In a large mixing bowl, toss the spinach leaves with the shallot vinaigrette. To serve: Distribute equally amounts of dressed spinach salad among six salad plates or bowls. Crumble one slice of pancetta over each salad, and garnish each with four cherry tomato halves and a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese.

BERGHOFF BEER-BRAISED BRISKET
What a great way to serve brisket - in a sandwich!
Makes 8 sandwiches

1 3 1/2 - 4 pound boneless beef brisket
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon cracked black pepper
1/4 cup olive oil
2 pounds onions, thinly sliced
1 bay leaf
1 (12-ounce) bottle lager beer
2 cups beef broth
1 cup prepared barbecue sauce
8 Kaiser or onion rolls, halved

1. Trim meat of excess fat and season with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a 6-8 quart wide, heavy pot over moderately high heat, until hot but not smoking. Brown the meat well on both sides, about 10 minutes total. Remove from the pan and set aside, reserving the fat in the pot (do not clean pot).

2. Saute the onions with the bay leaf in the fat remaining in the pot over moderate heat until golden. Remove from the heat and transfer half the onions to a bowl. Arrange the brisket over the onions remaining in the pot, then top with remaining onions. Add the beer and broth, (the liquid should come about halfway up the sides of the meat). Cover the pot and braise for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, pour the barbecue sauce over the brisket, and continue to braise for 1 more hour. Remove the meat from the pan and let rest for about 30 minutes. In a saucepan, reduce the braising liquid to a sauce-like consistency.

3. Transfer the brisket to a clean cutting board. Slice the meat across the grain and distribute among the bottom halves of the buns, spooning over reduced braising liquid, if desired. Cover with upper bread halves and serve.

ROOT BEER FLOAT
For kids of all ages!

2 quarts Berghoff (or other) root beer
8 scoops vanilla ice cream

Line up eight 10-ounce serving or float glasses. Place one scoop of ice cream in each glass, and top with 1-cup root beer. Serve immediately with a drinking straw and a long handled spoon.

Above recipes, reprinted or adapted from the Berghoff Family Cook Book, Andrews McMeel Publishing, LLC.

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