Dan's Papers - October 12, 2007 - Lobster And Literature At Old Mill Inn

Given its out-of-the-way location - a few miles north of Sound Avenue on Mattituck Inlet - it's surprising to learn that the Old Mill Inn is currently owned and run by a group of high-profile Manhattanites. But those few miles are well rewarded when you arrive and realize what happy advantage is being taken of this offbeat spot. It's not unusual, on any given day, to find pristine local greens, such as Swiss chard and mesclun harvested that morning, sharing a plate with a pan-seared striped bass just off the boat next door.

Seafood is the star at this landmark - built in the early 1800s - whose interior recalls the saloons of the great ocean liners of times past. (Go for lunch for a view of the inlet and the local fishing fleet.)

On a recent evening we began with Chef Alberto Marinato's award-winning Manhattan clam chowder (first prize winner at the Greenport Maritime Festival Chowder Contest) and a fabulous amuse-bouche of parsnip crisps topped with baby fennel and poached lobster in a luscious mineola orange emulsion. That same emulsion bathed a pan-roasted monkfish entrée, and was eagerly sopped up with warm crusty bread by all at our table.

A sprightly salad of frisse, adorned with chunks of gorgonzola and sweet roasted garlic, was perfectly dressed with a white Balsamic vinaigrette. A very fresh-tasting 2006 Sauvignon Blanc from Jamesport Vineyards, with a wonderfully aromatic nose and lots of tropical fruit mid-palate, provided just enough acidity to balance the richness of the garlic and cheese. (Lieb Pinot Blanc is another good choice.)

Don't miss the "Pommes Frites," with their escorts of house-made sauces, including aioli. The yellow pepper ketchup was particularly inspired.

For a pasta course we opted to share "Mrs. Ramsey's Beef Daube," a culinary tribute (no doubt inspired by Old Mill Inn co-owner and author Bia Lowe) to Virginia Woolf's To The Lighthouse. True to Woolf's description, "it was rich; it was tender. It was perfectly cooked." In fact, the chunks of beef shoulder, enlivened by clove and orange zest, were so good we can hardly blame Mrs. Ramsey for taking the credit away from her cook in Woolf's novel. With this we enjoyed a bottle of 2005 Corey Creek Cabernet Franc. The spicy wine with lively tannins was a perfect match for the hearty stew.

Chef Marinato often goes "shopping" at the dock by the restaurant, so entrée specials here often focus on seafood. The North Fork Bouillabaisse featured striped bass with a supporting cast of a supremely fresh catch of monkfish, grouper and mussels. More of a fish stew than a traditional Bouillabaise, which usually features saffron and fennel or Pernod in a broth poured over French bread topped with aioli, this tasty version featured fresh herbs and a fish stock obviously made from scratch. The only quibble was that we would have liked more broth for all the wonderful fish, but this is really a tribute to its quality more than a gripe.

Meltingly tender beef shortribs, served on the bone, came with an outstanding celeriac puree. The chef, who clearly has a knack for making root vegetables shine, again dazzles with ginger pureed sweet potatoes served alongside a moist pork tenderloin, which is marinated in Spanish paprika, maple syrup and lime and cooked till ever-so-slightly pink to prevent the meat from drying out. A menu entrée of pan-seared lamb loin won such applause from the person who ordered it that we felt bad asking him to share. A mélange of French flageolet beans, sautéed chard and tomatoes accompanied the lamb, which was topped with a Merlot/pan jus.

Fresh, whole local lobster is a signature dish at Old Mill Inn, and Martha Clara Vineyards Brut ($46), one of Long Island's best sparkling wines, is the signature sparkler. This pairing - cholesterol be damned! - would be a match made in drawn-butter heaven.

Desserts, often run-of-the-mill (sorry about the pun) at country restaurants, are not only outstanding but also interesting. A chocolate Gran Marnier pot de creme was rich and redolent of dark chocolate, and a fruit crisp with almond oatmeal topping pleased all. But the star was the sumptuous vanilla panna cotta with blueberry sauce. The plate was, quite literally, licked clean.

Two excellent local dessert wines are worth the price at dinner's end. Order Martha Clara's "Ciel," which is a late harvest blend of Riesling, Viognier and Chardonnay that tastes like the late afternoon light of fall has been captured in a glass, or the lighter, crisp and palate-cleansing Paumanok's Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc before tucking into dessert.

Appetizers/Small plates $7-10, Entrees $17-31 (lobster is MP), Desserts $8. Old Mill Inn is open Thursday-Monday for lunch (noon-4) and dinner (5-9, till 10 on Saturdays). Located at 5775 West Mill Road in Mattituck. Call 631-298-8080