Dan's Papers - October 3, 2008 - Simple Art of Cooking

Early one day I thought about what I would prepare for dinner that evening. I opened the fridge, pulled out a vegetable drawer and there was a large bunch of crisp leafy Swiss chard I had purchased a couple of days before at the farmers market not knowing what I would do with it. I also had a box of phyllo I had defrosted in the refrigerator a few days before - phyllo will stay fresh for 3-4 weeks after defrosting - and feta cheese, a staple in my refrigerator. On hand too were the usual basics: eggs, Russet potatoes, and parsley from my garden, all the ingredients I would need to prepare my torta, a savory Italian pie. I salivated at the thought of it.

Time was when boxed phyllo (or fylla) came in full sized 17 x 12-inch sheets. For practical purposes the frozen phyllo brand found in most supermarkets is now packaged with 2 separate 8-ounce packages. Tightly sealed, they keep fresher longer that way. It's a week or so since I prepared my torta verde and it was delicious. With the solemn holiday of Yom Kippur on October 9, culminating the ten-day holiday of Rosh Hashanah, torta verde will make a perfect break fast to celebrate the Jewish New Year. The dish has all the components of a light satisfying repast; earthy Swiss chard, briny, crumbly feta, protein and crisp leafy pastry, after a day of fasting.

TORTA VERDE WITH PHYLLO
Originally prepared with a pastry crust, this vegetable torte is an adaptation from Liguria. I substituted the pastry with phyllo making this Italian inspired pie easy as pie.
Makes a 12-inch round pie to serve 8

For the filling
1 large Russet potato, scrubbed clean
1/2-2/3 pound Swiss chard or spinach
Coarse (kosher) salt
2 eggs, beaten
1 medium yellow onion, peeled and finely chopped
2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf Italian parsley
2/3-3/4 pound feta cheese, crumbled
Freshly ground black pepper

For the phyllo crust
10-12 sheets fresh phyllo leaves
3-4 tablespoons vegetable oil

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

1. Cook potato in boiling salted water to cover for 35-40 minutes until tender enough to slice. Drain and let cool, then slice potato 1/2-inch thick.

2. While potato is cooking remove large stems from the greens; wash and spin dry. Stack the leafy greens and slice into 1-inch pieces. Return to colander and sprinkle with 1 1/2 tablespoon salt. Toss to mix and set aside for 15-20 minutes.

3. Meanwhile in a large mixing bowl, beat eggs well. Stack potato slices and cut into 1/4-inch dice. Put into bowl with the beaten eggs and add onions, parsley and feta. Press greens against colander with the back of a wooden spoon to squeeze exuding juices as well as possible. Add to the potato mixture and season with freshly ground pepper. Gently toss mixture to distribute ingredients. Can be prepared ahead to this point.

4. Place the phyllo leaves on work counter covered with a lightly dampened clean kitchen towel. Pour oil into a small cup or bowl. Place one sheet of phyllo on a lightly greased baking sheet. With the tips of your fingers toss a bit of oil over the sheet. Repeat with 4 more sheets of phyllo in an octagonal arrangement for the base of the torta to form a rounded shape. Mound the filling over the phyllo, leaving a border about 1 1/2 inches around. Cover filling with 4-5 phyllo sheets repeating the octagonal arrangement, tossing a bit of oil over each sheet, as above.

4. Fold over edges to seal. With the tip of a paring knife, cut tiny slits in a several places over the top to allow steam to escape. Bake in preheated oven until golden and crusty, about 30-35 minutes. Transfer to a wooden board for a rustic effect and cut into wedges for serving. Serve warm.

ALMOND PHYLLO CRISPS
Crisps can keep in an airtight container at room temperature for several days.
About 42 crisps

1/2 cup whole almonds, blanched
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
2 tablespoons canola oil
2 tablespoons melted butter
7-8 - 8 1/2 x 12" sheets of phyllo
Confectioners' sugar

1. Blanch almonds in a saucepan of boiling water for 1 minute. Drain and when cool enough to handle slip off their skins, discarding skins. Dry blanched almonds on paper towel or place in a 350-degree oven for 2 minutes to dry thoroughly. Transfer the nuts to a food processor with the sugar. Process the mixture to a medium fine grind.

2. Combine oil and melted butter in a small bowl next to where you will work. Unroll sheets from box and cover with a lightly dampened towel or plastic wrap. Place 1 phyllo sheet on a work surface and, with the tips of your fingers or a pastry brush, toss a light sprinkle of the oil/ butter mixture over the dough. Sprinkle evenly with 2 tablespoons of almond sugar. Top with remaining phyllo sheets, sprinkling the oil/butter and almond sugar in the same manner. With sharp bread or slicing knife cut lengthwise into 2" strips then cut each strip crosswise into 1 1/2-inch squares. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

3. Arrange crisps, sugared sides up, in one layer, on a lightly greased cookie sheets. Bake in batches in middle of oven about 8-10 minutes or until golden brown. Transfer to rack to cool.