Over the Barrel.. with Lenn Thompson

Would I Sherwood? Sure Would.

There's a spot, between Route 48 and Oregon Road, just off Elijah's Lane, that offers an escape of the hustle and bustle of Long Island. In fact, as your car crawls down the gravel driveway, you just might think that you've been transported to the French countryside. This spot is Sherwood House Vineyards and their tiny little tasting shed.

This seasonal shed is probably smaller than your kitchen, but don't let its size fool you - when it comes to tasting rooms, size certainly does not matter. Bigger is not always better.

And, it should come as no surprise that owners Barb and Charles Smithen have captured the French countryside. They are devout lovers of that nation and bought a house there a couple years ago. Their wines evoke the Old World as well, and they are well suited to the dinner table as we move from summer into fall.

"In the fall we start to drink our traditional merlots, and our cabernet francs-served with hearty stews, pork tenderloin, beef and cassoulet when I have the time and special ingredients," said Barbara when I asked her about her own drinking habits this time of year.

It's hard to argue, though one could argue that their now sold-out dry rose and rich chardonnay too have a place as evenings get cooler and days shorter.

That rose, made with cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah grapes, sold for $15 and I know that I'm saving my last bottle for Thanksgiving day. This pretty pink wine features aromas of fresh crushed strawberries, red licorice and delicate flowers. Medium bodied, the texture and mouthfeel are mouthwatering, as are the straightforward strawberry and mint flavors. There's plenty of acidity here as well, making it great with a variety of foods-including your turkey dinner. Sadly, only 40 cases were made. They are planning to make 100-150 cases next year.

When I tasted Sherwood House Vineyards 2003 Chardonnay ($20) upon its release, I thought the oak a little too obvious, but several months later it seems to have released its strangle hold. Cinnamon-roasted apples and toasty vanilla aromas rise from the glass as you take the first sip, which is marked by more apples, vanilla, butterscotch and just the most subtle mineral notes. Medium-to-full bodied, there is just enough structure and the texture - again is a highlight. Chardonnay with roast chicken may be a cliché, but it's not without reason. This wine will dance with it. Butter-poached lobster seems a nice foil as well.

Sherwood House Vineyards 2004 Cabernet Franc ($24) earthy on the nose with mushrooms, dusty cocoa and herbal notes backed by nice, refined cherry aromas. Soft and mouth-filling, there's more cherry, vanilla and faint cinnamon spice wrapped up in soft, velvety tannins and just a little acidity. A well-made wine from a slightly cool year. Will shine with food-especially local duck.

For pot roast or beef stew, try Sherwood House Vineyards 2003 Merlot ($24). Juicy medium garnet, this wine's nose is straightforward with black cherries, blackberries and light smoky oak. This is a very Old World-style wine with a rustic edge that is charming even if the nuance and grace of past vintages of Sherwood House merlot isn't quite here. It's not complex, but the French oak influences, cherry-blackberry flavors and a medium-long finish are tasty nonetheless.

Make the trip to this tiny little tasting room with the big, tasty wines. The room is open from noon to 5 p.m. on weekends until it gets "really cold" when the Smithen's will open their home for VIP tastings.

They are also playing host to their harvest party on October 13. Visit www.sherwoodhousevineyards.com for more information on wines or the party.

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