Dan's Papers - October 6, 2006 -

Apples, apples, apples and more apples are coming into season at a quickening pace. Think apple pie, probably the one dish that piques our memory bank. Juicy, tart apples, sweetly seasoned and piled high in a two-crusted pie, make our mouth water. Hope you will give the dough recipe a try with the simple food processor method below - or if you are still too intimidated to make your own, purchase store bought dough; the rest is as simple as pie.

In chatting with my friend Gracieuse Rives-Georges in Paris recently, I was reminded of her delectable Clafoutis, more commonly known as "the French housewives' cake." This custard-based fruit tart is simply prepared with a crepe-like batter with fruit added. Traditionally made with sour cherries, the dessert, which in France is often whipped up at the drop of a hat, is generally not prepared with a standard recipe. "Just put in enough milk so it's not too liquid" my friend suggests, "but with enough flour for a little thickness." Here the Clafoutis is prepared with apples, preferably tart ones. I have always been inspired by Gracieuse's recipes and hope you will be too.

HOMEMADE APPLE PIE
With thanks to my dear friend Enez Villa Sussman, a sweet lady and a marvelous cook.
Makes 8 servings

For a flaky pie crust
2 cups all purpose flour
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
7 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into slices
3 tablespoons cold shortening
6 tablespoons ice water

For the filling
3 pounds Granny Smith or Greening apples
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/3 cup brown sugar
2 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
2 tablespoons unsalted butter

For the Glaze
2 tablespoons milk or water
Sugar (for sprinkling)

Vanilla ice cream or frozen vanilla yogurt,
optional

1. For a simple food processor method, process the flour, sugar and salt in a work bowl fitted with a steel knife. Add the butter and shortening and process for 7 seconds. Measure ice water in a Pyrex measuring cup and slowly pour through the feed tube of processor until a ball of dough is formed. Do not over-process or dough will be tough. Transfer to a lightly floured board, and with the heel of your hand, knead the dough two or three times to blend the fat and flour. Gather into a ball and flatten into a large, burger-type patty. Cut a cross in top of dough and refrigerate for one hour or longer.
2. Meanwhile, peel, core and slice the apples to about 1/2 inch-thick. Place in a large bowl with the lemon juice and toss gently to coat. Mix sugar, flour, cinnamon and nutmeg and fold mixture into the apples with a large rubber spatula.

Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

3. Cut chilled dough in half and roll out one-half into a 13-inch round. Transfer to a 9-inch Pyrex pie plate. Pile filling into pastry and dot with butter. Moisten edges of bottom pastry with milk or water. Roll out remaining pastry and drape over the filling. Pinch edges together and cut off excess to about 1 inch. Roll up edges and crimp to secure. Cut small vents in the top. Brush with milk or water and sprinkle with sugar.
4. Place pie on a baking sheet in lower third of preheated oven and bake for 10-12 minutes. Reduce heat to 350 degrees and place oven rack in center of oven. Bake an additional 40-45 minutes until crust is golden brown and apple filling bubbles thickly, about 1 hour. Transfer to a pie rack and cool. Serve warm or at room temperature, with vanilla ice cream or whipped cream if desired.

FRENCH APPLE CLAFOUTIS
Clafoutis (Cl-A-foo-tea) is a custard-based fruit tart traditionally baked with sour cherries. This inspired version is made with tart apples.
Serves 6-8

3-4 tart apples such as Jonagold or Mutsu, peeled and sliced
3/4 cup flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 large eggs
1/3 cup, plus 3 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 cups milk
Scrapings from 1 split vanilla bean or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces

Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

1. Lightly butter and flour a shallow 10-inch oven-proof gratin dish and arrange apple slices in bottom of dish.
2. Sift flour and salt into a bowl and make a well. Beat eggs with 1/3 cup sugar and stir in the milk. Pour the liquid into the well and slowly incorporate flour into the liquid mixture with a fork or whisk until smooth. Add vanilla bean or extract and stir to mix. Pour mixture over the apples and dot with butter.
3. Bake in preheated oven for 25 minutes. Remove gratin from oven and sprinkle with remaining 3 tablespoons sugar. Return to oven and bake about 5 minutes longer or until well glazed. Serve warm or at room temperature.