Dan's Papers - September 26, 2008 - The Simple Art Of Cooking

The Hamptons are well known for the transient segment of the population - those that only spend a specific season, those who spend weekends and those who may be leaving for warmer climes for the better part of the year. Many East Enders who leave family behind and have become, in essence, a family of two. Dinner for two is a ritual that I practice on an almost daily basis. I look forward to my dinner and eating well is high priority resulting in the tasteful recipes below.

ROASTED SALMON WITH POTATOES AND HERB VINAIGRETTE
The salmon is slowly cooked to melting perfection over a bed of crisped potatoes and served with piquant herb vinaigrette.
Serves 2

1 Idaho potato, about 1 1/4 pounds, peeled and cut into slices, about 1/8-inch thick
4 1/2 - 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
2-3 tablespoons mixed fresh herbs, sage parsley and tarragon
2 center cut wild salmon fillets, about 6-8 ounces each, skinned

1. Heat oven to 425 degrees. Film a baking/serving dish, such as terra cotta or porcelain with olive oil. Arrange potato slices in slightly overlapping layers. Drizzle 1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil evenly over the potatoes and season with salt and pepper. Bake about 18- 20 minutes until lightly golden.

2. While potatoes bake, whisk together vinegar, mustard and herbs in a mixing bowl. Slowly whisk in 3 tablespoons olive oil, until emulsified. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and set aside. The potatoes and vinaigrette can be prepared ahead.

3. Before baking, drizzle fillets with olive oil to lightly coat and season with salt and pepper. Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Place fillets over the potatoes skinned side down. Roast for 16-18 minutes until salmon feels springy to the touch and slightly pink within. Remove baking dish from the oven. With a large serving spoon lift individual servings of salmon with a portion of potatoes onto warm plates. Drizzle each fillet with a bit of the vinaigrette and serve.

STEAMED BONELESS CHICKEN CANTONESE STYLE FOR TWO
My brief flirtation with Chinese cooking.

1/2 cup sliced dry shitake or Chinese black mushrooms, reconstituted
2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts cut to about 1 - 1 1/2-inch thick chunks

For the seasoning
1 teaspoon freshly grated ginger root
1/2 teaspoon salt and several grinds fresh pepper
1/4 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon dry sherry or rice wine
2 teaspoons light soy sauce
1 tablespoon cornstarch
Coarsely chopped fresh coriander for garnish

1. Place mushrooms in a small bowl and cover with warm water. Let stand 15-20 minutes to reconstitute.

2. Place chicken chunks in a bowl and season with remaining ingredients. Put the seasoned chicken in a shallow Pyrex pie plate. With slotted spoon scoop reconstituted mushrooms over the seasoned chicken. Strain mushroom water over the chicken.

3. Place pie plate holding the chicken in a wok over briskly simmering water. Cover the work and steam over medium-high heat about 15-20 minutes until meat turns opaque and firm to the touch with chopsticks. When done, remove from heat and baste mushrooms with pan juices. Garnish with coriander and serve with pan juices spooned over.

ZWIEZELROSTBRATEN
This steak for 2 originated in Mayerhofen, Austria when I had the pleasure of cooking with the personal chef to the President of the country. I've made some adjustments in the years since I learned this dish, I use olive oil to prepare it rather than vegetable oil and butter.
Serves 2

2 rib or club steaks, 3/4-inch thick
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
Dash Tabasco sauce

For the onions
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large Spanish or Bermuda onion, thinly sliced
Coarse (kosher) salt
Tomato halves and parsley sprigs for garnish

1. Place steaks between sheets of wax paper and pound to 1/2-inch thick. Sprinkle steaks lightly with salt and pepper, oil, Worcestershire and Tabasco; rubbing the mixture well into the meat. Marinate about an hour.

2. For the onion, heat 2 tablespoons oil in a heavy skillet (I prefer to use the black iron skillet for this recipe). When hot, add the onions and saute over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until golden brown. Sprinkle with salt to taste, transfer to a side dish and keep warm.

3. Heat the same skillet the onions cooked in for a minute or two and add the remaining tablespoon olive oil. When the oil shimmers put in the steaks and saute about 3-5 minutes on each side for rare or medium rare and well seared without and pink within. Transfer steaks to warm plates and divide onions over each one. Garnish with tomato halves and parsley sprigs.

Adapted from Silvia Lehrer's Cooking at Cooktique, Doubleday, 1985