Silvia Lehrer's Cooking Column

Perhaps it is no coincidence that the plum, a sweet and juicy fruit, is also the name we use for special and favorably sweet situations.

This sweet tasting fruit, native to Europe, China and North America, where the climate is temperate, comes in a wide range of sizes, shapes and colors. Some of the more familiar names in the marketplace are Green Gage, Damsons and Santa Rosa. Look for plums that are fairly firm to a slightly soft stage of ripeness with a smooth flesh and even color. Green plums, like Green Gage, should be yellowish while other plum varieties are more deeply colored to red, purple and black. Avoid any plums with brownish color, which indicates deterioration and insipid flavor. The flavor of a good ripe plum has a luscious sweet/tart balance that distinguishes it as one of our finest stone fruits.

In addition to eating out of hand, stewing or poaching, I fancy the idea of plums in tarts and pies. The classic rustic tart made with a free-form base of pate brisee (pastry dough), coated with a layer of sugary almonds and topped with sweet plum halves is favored at this time of the year. With a nod to the fall grape harvest, a technique similar to the plum tart can be used to prepare a luscious grape tart.

To celebrate the sweetness of the New Year following the Yom Kippur holiday this weekend, either of these delectable fruit desserts would be nice to have around.

PLUM TART
An inspired tart with seasonal plums blankets a sandwich of sugary almonds. When using juicy red plums the tart looks like a fruit pizza!
Serves 8-10

Prepare pate brisee in the food processor. Gather into a ball, wrap in wax paper and chill in refrigerator, or purchase prepared pastry dough.

1 egg white, beaten
1/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons ground almonds
2 - 2 1/2 pounds large plums, halved, pitted and cut into 1/2 inch wedges
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1-1 1/2 tablespoons pear brandy or cognac
Whipped cream or vanilla ice cream for serving, optional

1. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough to 1/8 inch thick. Drape the dough over the rolling pin and transfer it to a large cookie sheet. Prick the bottom of the shell with the tines of a fork and refrigerate until firm, at least 30 minutes or longer.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

3. Make the filling: Beat the egg white in a bowl; stir in 1/4 cup sugar and the ground almonds. Spread the mixture evenly over the dough to within 1 1/2 inches of the edge. Arrange the plum wedges in a circular fashion, beginning at the outside edge. Sprinkle remaining sugar over the fruit and dot with bits of butter. Bring up the dough and fold in the edges. Lightly brush edge with water.

4. Bake the tart on the middle shelf of the oven for about 50 minutes, until fruit is tender and pastry is brown and crusty. Some juices may leak onto the baking sheet; slide a knife under the galette to release it from the sheet.

5. Slide the tart onto a large wooden board and drizzle the liqueur over the fruit. Can be prepared up to several hours or one day ahead. If prepared ahead, refrigerate, covered with plastic wrap. Cut the tart into wedges and serve at room temperature. Serve with dollop of whipped cream or vanilla ice cream if desired.

HARVEST GRAPE TART
The vineyards on our own East End inspired this timely grape tart recipe.
Serves 8-10

Prepare pate brisee in the food processor. Gather into a ball, wrap in wax paper and chill in refrigerator - or - purchase prepared pastry dough.

2 pounds green seedless grapes
2 egg whites, lightly beaten
1/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar
1/2 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/3 cup grape jelly
1 tablespoon Kirsch or Grand Marnier

1. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough to 1/8 inch thick. Drape the dough over a rolling pin and transfer it to a large cookie sheet. Prick the bottom of the shell with the tines of a fork and refrigerate until firm, at least 30 minutes or longer.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

2. Rinse and stem the grapes and pat dry with paper towels. Set aside.

3. For the filling: Beat the egg white in a small bowl and add 1/4 cup sugar and pine nuts. Spread mixture evenly over the dough to within 1 1/2 inches of the edge. Arrange the grapes on top closing all gaps by adding more grapes as necessary. Sprinkle remaining sugar over the top and dot with bits of butter. Bring up the dough and fold in the edges to create a border. Lightly brush the edge with water.

4. Bake the tart on the middle shelf of the oven for 40-50 minutes, until fruit is tender and the pastry is a golden brown and crusty.

5. About 15 minutes before the tart is ready, place the grape jelly in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer. Let cook over very low heat for 2-3 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in the liqueur.

6. When tart is done, slide onto a large cutting board and drizzle the jelly mixture over the top to glaze the fruit. Can be prepared ahead and refrigerated, tented with plastic wrap. Cut tart into wedges and serve with a dollop of whipped cream or vanilla ice cream, if desired.

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