Dan's Papers - September 21, 2007

Although it is new this year, it is hard now to imagine Sag Harbor without Tutto ll Giorno. This wonderfully quaint Italian restaurant has become a hit amongst the local base of Sag Harbor, which is not an easy thing to accomplish in one season. The owners of the restaurants have added a celebrity appeal, it is co-owned by Maria and Larry Baum and Marianne and Steve Florio (he's the former CEO of Condé Nast). One would think that having high profile owners would add a snobbery to the restaurant that would turn people off to it, especially in the Hamptons where being real in the restaurant business matters way more then who you are. But thankfully, the owners have focused on the food and the beauty of the restaurant, allowing that to speak for them. Because of this, they have developed a tremendous following amongst locals and Manhattanites alike, who feel warm and welcomed at the restaurant, the way an Italian restaurant should be. Lucky for us that still sneak to Sag Harbor, they are open year round.

My guest and I sat and were dazzled by the orchestra of food and wine presented to us. The classically trained executive chef Michael Pirolo puts on a Broadway musical. We tasted ended up being one of our favorite dishes first. The branzino tartare of minced raw fish, avocado, sea salt and Italian extra virgin olive oil was delicious. Have this with Prosecco Di Conegliano sparkling wine and your senses dance. We also tried a glass of Seleme Vermentino 2006, which was an excellent white wine to go with our fresh heirloom tomatoes, Sicilian La Demio extra virgin olive oil, diced grape tomato, crisp bread and burrata. Excellent.

We paired another tasting of rosé called Il Mimo (highly recommended) along with a fresh octopus salad with fried potato that was another favorite of our appetizers. I highly recommend that you get this salad, as it is a truly unique, delicious and healthy dish. We also tried a small portion of their Italian Bolognaise, made with handmade pasta that was perfect. I was reminded of my travels to Rome last year from this dish. We each had a sip of Nero d'Avola red wine from Sicily to go with this dish.

For dinner, we were both floored by the Tocai Friulano White wine along with Bronzino, a light Mediterranean sea bass along with ratatouille, which made the dish very light and healthy. We also tasted their Amano Primativo red wine with their chicken and spinach gorgonzola creme with white grapes. The chef here is just creative, my guest and I were both fascinated by the unique and delicious food. Finally, we had a tasting of their perfectly cut rib eye with sweet creme corn and sip of the Toscalo Chianti, just another of the many suburb Italian wines offered and a chefs recommendation to go with the dish.

Melissa Manni, the GM of the restaurant was walking around and saying hello to the guests of the dining room, most of whom she knew by name. When she came to our table, it was time for dessert and no better person to recommend it then her. We were glad that she did. My guest and I were giggly like children when we tasted the homemade tiramisu and the sensational and crispy sesame cannoli filled with an orange mascarpone mousse that comes with balsamic-marinated blueberries, strawberries and concord grape. This was my favorite dessert of the evening and I recommend that if you go, you don't leave without ordering this.

My guest and I enjoyed conversation in the warmth of this Italian restaurant and then left so happy that Tutto Il Giorno is open all year. We will be back again soon. Located at 6 Bay St in Sag Harbor. Call (631) 725-7009.