Dan's Papers - September 14, 2007 - Silvia Lehrer's Cooking Column

When I received an e-mail from Slow Food Long Island announcing the North Fork Foodie Tour it was music to my ears. My friend Maureen and I scooted over to the North Fork last Sunday to attend. The event was an informative adventure and a terrific lesson in the geography of the North Fork.

Sponsored by the North Fork Reform Synagogue the tour celebrated the bounty of the region. A map of the thirteen farm, vineyard and aquaculture locations was provided and we were off on our own to go behind the scenes for special talks, tastings and tours. There were some time restrictions for the events spread out from Riverhead to Greenport and so we couldn't do it all. We visited the family operated Catapano Dairy Farm where a variety of cheeses, yogurts and goats milk skin care products are made daily with fresh pasteurized milk from their amazing herd of goats. Fred lee of Sang Lee farms captivated his large audience with his talk on sustainable, local agriculture and stressed the importance of CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) membership. The farm grows an extensive variety of heirloom tomatoes, baby and Asian greens, herbs and flowers. At Fred's suggestions I picked up some heirlooms to prepare the inspired recipe below. A stop at Taste of North Fork and a tour of their kitchen where custom products are made with local ingredients provided us with tastings of jams and jellies, vinegars and mustards, and North Fork potato chips, my weakness.

Then off we went to TY LLWYD (strangely pronounced "tea clue id") Farm. We followed Welsh born Elizabeth Wines around the Wines family chicken and duck farm where only female chickens with a few roosters - one rooster for every fifteen chickens - waddle around in their pens. The sole purpose of the Rhode Island Reds is to lay eggs and eggs they lay - about 50 dozen each day. Dinner that Sunday night was poached eggs Provencal - how could I resist.

SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH FETA AND TOMATO
My Greek-born mother frequently prepared this tasty dish on Sunday mornings.
Serves 3-4

6 extra-large eggs, scrambled
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/3 cup feta cheese, crumbled
1 large tomato, peeled, seeded and diced
Dash or two paprika
Toast slices

1. Beat eggs well in a medium bowl with a fork or whisk until light and fluffy. Season with salt and pepper

2. Heat the butter in a non-stick12 inch skillet over medium-low heat. Add the eggs and stir with a wooden spoon or heat-proof spatula until slightly set and moist curds begin to form. Quickly add the crumbled feta, sprinkle with paprika then add tomato and stir to mix.

3. Serve on warm plates with toast of your choice.

POACHED EGGS PROVENCAL
A simple tomato sauce is the base for softly poached eggs topped with a grating of nutty Swiss Gruyere
Serves 6

2 tablespoons white vinegar
6 extra-large eggs

For the sauce
1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large clove garlic, finely chopped
6 plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Dash cayenne
2 tablespoons chiffonade of fresh basil
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
5-6 tablespoons freshly grated Swiss Gruyere cheese

1. To soft-poach eggs bring 3 quarts water and vinegar to a rapid boil in a large saucepan. Reduce to a brisk simmer and break one egg at a time on the side of the saucepan into the simmering water. With a spoon rotate the surface over the egg to help draw the whites around the yolk. Continue to cook remaining eggs about 3 minutes for a runny yolk, rolling them over half way through the cooking time. Remove the eggs with a slotted spoon to a bowl of iced water to stop the cooking. Drain on paper towels and trim off any hanging pieces of whites.

2. Prepare the sauce in a wide oven-proof skillet. Warm oil in the skillet and add garlic. Saute over medium heat about 30-40 seconds. Add tomatoes, salt, pepper, cayenne and herbs and stir to mix. Simmer for 5-6 minutes to retain the texture of the tomatoes. Taste to adjust seasoning if necessary.

3. Arrange poached eggs in a single layer over tomato mixture. Season eggs lightly with salt, pepper and cayenne and sprinkle grated cheese over the top. Can be prepared up to and hour or so ahead to this point.

4. When ready to serve place in a preheated 350 degree oven. Bake 5-6 minutes until the cheese melts. Serve hot with brioche rolls. Adapted from Silvia Lehrer's Cooking at Cooktique, Doubleday.

RED, YELLOW AND ORANGE HEIRLOOM TOMATO SALAD
Heirloom tomatoes team up with shavings of Parmesan for a colorful late summer salad. Just dress with good quality vinegar and oil and a scattering of basil chiffonade.
Serves 4-6

1 each large ripe red, yellow and orange heirloom tomatoes
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon balsamic or sherry wine vinegar
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
Shavings of Parmesan cheese from a solid chunk
1/2 cup chiffonade of fresh basil*

1. Rinse and dry tomatoes and slice about 1/2 inch thick. Alternate the colorful slices on a serving platter. Drizzle with olive oil in a thin stream to coat then sprinkle with vinegar. Season tomatoes with salt and pepper and scatter Parmesan shavings and basil over the top.

*Note: for the basil chiffonade stack several fresh basil leaves, roll up tightly like a cigar then slice crosswise. Repeat as necessary for desired amount.