Dan's Papers - September 14, 2007 -

Even though the North Fork Table has only been open for about fifteen months, the initial impressions we had when we first reviewed the restaurant, only a few days after it officially opened in May 2006, have been more than fulfilled. Chefs Gerry Hayden and his wife Claudia Fleming and their partners, Mike and Mary Mraz, who manage the front of house side of the business, brought very impressive Manhattan resumes to this quiet part of the North Fork. But this was not a guarantee of success, as others have found. What brought them to the position where the North Fork Table, after such a short time by restaurant standards, is rightly regarded one of the restaurant jewels of Long Island, has been their meticulous attention to detail, to their understanding of the likes and dislikes of the clientele, and to really conforming to their mission statement of "being committed to supporting the local agricultural and fishing communities, whenever possible, in order to raise awareness of the pristine bounty the North Fork of Long Island has to offer."

The menu is relatively short and there is also a five-course chef's set tasting menu that requires the participation of the whole table. We started with one of the appetizers that has become a firm favorite. Crispy cod and Yukon Gold potato cakes were beautifully crisp outside and soft and delicate inside. The truffled tartar sauce was appropriately tart and optimized the delicate tastes. The other appetizer proved to be even more intriguing and satisfying than its menu description of warm Satur farm baby leeks and chanterelle mushrooms with organic Iowa speck (a lightly smoked juniper flavored ham somewhat similar to prosciutto), soft cooked egg and summer truffle vinaigrette. This was an incredible visual and textural combination that tasted even better than it looked. All of the ingredients blended and nothing dominated. This certainly should be one of their signature dishes whenever the ingredients are available.

From the fascinating list of main courses, we opted for one fish and one meat. The pan braised, local wild striped bass was beautifully crisp and moist, and the large shrimps served with it were full of flavor, but the whole dish was lifted to a totally new level by the mélange of snow peas, Japanese eggplant and a sauce of tomato and coconut milk with enough chili added to give a very noticeable bite. Thankfully, they serve this dish with a spoon as well as a knife and fork. They also serve that great Tom Cat Bakery bread, so the bowl went back very clean!

Similarly, the pan roasted Long Island duck breast came cooked exactly as requested and the accompanying black olive potato gratin with endive, spinach and black Mission figs completed a dish full of deep rich tastes.

Desserts are the province of award-winning pastry chef Claudia Fleming, who also was responsible for the charming, light airy and unfussy but very comfortable décor of the restaurant. Choosing a dessert was perhaps the hardest task, but the one we chose more than exceeded our wildest expectations. Fragrant pannacotta teamed with roasted figs, a tart Concord grape sorbet and candied pistachios is another dish that should be a signature item for the originality and simplicity that produced incredible mouth filling tastes.

We arrived early, but even early on this mid-week evening the restaurant continued to fill. It is always advisable to book ahead because the restaurant only seats just over fifty and such sumptuous dinner fare is never hurried. If you wish to eat at one of the most popular times on a Saturday, then you should try to book three to four weeks ahead of time.

This is an inn as well as a restaurant and there are four bedrooms that have proved to be very popular - after all you also get a Continental breakfast prepared by Gerry and Claudia!

The North Fork Table is open for dinner from 5pm and after September will be closed on Monday and Tuesday. They also close for the month of January.

Appetizers range from $12 to $22; Main courses are from $29 to $48. There is an excellent eclectic wine list, we drank a white from the Basque region of Spain. This was a very refreshing light wine reminiscent of a vino verdhe but one with enough body to work even with the Asian overtoned fish dish. The Cuvee LC blended red wine from Channing Daughters was very good with the duck. Wines are from $8 to $12 by the glass and from $28 a bottle.

North Fork Table and its owners and very well trained staff fully deserve the success they have had and the plaudits they have received. This is a restaurant where you are made to feel welcome whether you simply want a salad and a glass of wine or a full meal. The service is friendly and knowledgeable and when you put all of these factors together with the truly world class food, you realize that you have spelled out the ingredients for producing the perfect eating experience.