Over the Barrel... with Lenn Thompson

Macari Vineyards, up on Sound Avenue in Mattituck, is a winery that does things a little differently. Instead of one, full-time, on-site winemaker, they have two consultants who make different wines. One, Helmut Gangl, is an Austrian native. The other, Paoloa Valverde, hails from Chile.

In the vineyard, they've pioneered and evangelized many of the sustainable and biodynamic growing practices being put to use in many local vineyards these days.

With the release of Macari Vineyards 2005 Solo Uno, they are doing something else previously unseen on the North Fork-selling a 750ml bottle of wine for $100. It's the second wine produced on Long Island priced at or over the $100. The other is Wolffer Estate Vineyards Premier Cru Merlot, which retails for $125 in the Hamptons. Castello di Borghese, it should be noted, sold it's 2001 Private Reserve blend for $195 per magnum, but that comes out to less then $100 per standard bottle.

The Solo Uno bottling-a blend of 45 percent merlot, 16 percent malbec, 17 percent cabernet sauvignon, 16 percent syrah, 4 percent cabernet franc and 2 percent petit verdot, is a deep, rich color that is almost black at it's core. The nose is similarly dark with ripe black plum and blackberry aromas with wet earth, leather, and dark-roast coffee. The palate is a little brawny but not overly so, with similar flavors to the nose with a little meatiness (from that Malbec no doubt), terrific mouthfeel, medium-grip tannins and just a little alcohol heat on the long, coffee-and-toffee finish. Is it worth $100? That's not for me to say, but this is a young wine and its best days are ahead of it certainly. This one will last at least five years, but can be decanted for an hour or so now for immediate drinking.

If $100 seems like a lot to you-Macari has other, more reasonably priced wines worth checking out.

Each and every year, I find Macari's sauvingon blanc to be balanced and less-aggressive renditions of this wine that is up-and-coming locally. The 2006 release sells for $19 and carries on that tradition of quality. Citrusy and melon-inflected on the nose, there are also mineral and gentle-rather than aggressive-grassy notes here. Medium-bodied in the mouth, loads of lemon, lime and grapefruit are backed by subtle herbal and grassy flavors and plenty of appetite-whetting acidity. The nicely lengthy finish is all lemons and minerals. Shellfish and fresh chevre are no-brainer pairings with this wine.

Rose wines have gone from the trailer park to tables in fine restaurants in recent years-and local prices reflect that trend. Some local roses are being sold for almost $20 now making Macari Vineyards 2006 ($13) refreshing on a couple levels. Beyond the relative bargain pricing, this copper-colored wine offers soft, fruity flavors-strawberry and watermelon-with just a little earthiness and floral quality. This blend of 75% Merlot, 16% Syrah, and 9% Cabernet Franc has just enough-and I mean just enough-acidity. Drink this one with Thanksgiving dinner this year.

Macari also produces the usual reds you'd expect-merlot, cabernet franc and various blends. But, two wines that you don't see much locally are among their most interesting offerings.

Macari Vineyards' 2005 Malbec ($22) is a bold, flavorful wine that puts the ripeness of the 2005 vintage front and center. It's loaded with intense black plum and black pepper aromas. The palate is rich and slightly meaty with more plum, pepper and a slightly juicy note on the mid-palate. The finish lingers nicely with a hint of spice. This wine signals the arrival of Malbec on the North Fork. Try it will char-grilled steak this summer.

One of the more aromatically intriguing wines I've tasted in a while, Macari Vineyards' 2005 Syrah ($22) isn't the wine for you if you like those overly fruity, extracted, almost-sweet shiraz wines from Australia. Its nose offers some cherry aromas, but also those of pine needles, eucalyptus, leather and mint. A decidedly Old World-style wine, dark cherry flavors are joined by pine resin, black pepper, leather and more eucalyptus. There is still some raw oak flavor here, but it's not overpowering and should fade with more bottle time.

To learn more about these wines, visit their tasting room, or their website www.macariwines.com.

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