Dan's Papers - September 5, 2008 - Simple Art of Cooking

Quail Hill Community Farm in Amagansett, a stewardship project of the Peconic Land Trust, held its annual Great Tomato Taste-Off on Saturday, August 30. The day began a little drizzly yet well over 100 cheerful participants braved the threatening weather to come to taste and rate 52 varieties of tomatoes - taking their deliberations quite seriously. Several picnic tables were set up on the vast lawn of the farm. Each table held 6-8 tomato varieties marked by a number and a name. A volunteer table attendant cut up tomatoes as fast as she or he could to satisfy the deluge of tasters. Tomatoes ranged in size from tiny cherries to ovals and traditional rounds, from yellow to deep reds and reddish green to deep mahogany. Matt's Wild Cherry, a tiny bright red tomato packed with sweet full flavor won first place - it was my pick, too, but I missed on some other top picks. Among the top choices was a zebra-skinned green tomato with a sweet zingy flavor, called - what else, Green Zebra. One table held sauce tomatoes - my personal favorite was Amish Paste, which made it on the list of the top 15 varieties. According to farm member and volunteer organizer Jane Weissman, the taste-off ratings allow Quail Hill to select from these diverse varieties for planting next season.

Scott Chaskey, farmer, is the guiding force behind Quail Hill Community Farm. Chaskey grew up in the suburbs of Buffalo, New York. He went off to England to get a graduate degree and worked as a gardener to earn extra money. The innate feeling he had for gardening was an epiphany, which eventually led him to Quail Hill. Earlier, through his East End artist in-laws, he learned about CSA, community supported agriculture, who participated in a small 10-family farm on Butter Lane in 1988. How times have changed - if you were to drive down Butter Lane in Bridgehampton today, glorious homes can hardly be seen through the hedgerows.

For Chaskey, Quail Hill is a community CSA project, yet growing vegetables is just one part of the story. For him an event such as the Great Tomato Taste-Off is building community, educating the public about preserving the land, about organic - but it isn't just about organic; it's about taking care of the soil and keeping it sustainable. Readers of this column know that I share Chaskey's passion for the land and for eating locally. Tantalize your taste buds with sweet vine-ripened tomatoes while the season lasts!

MARINATED CHERRY TOMATO AND PARSLEY SALAD
Crunchy, juicy and delicious!
Serves 4-6

1 pint yellow and red cherry or grape tomatoes
1 cucumber, peeled, seeded and sliced thin
4 scallions, trimmed and sliced thin
1/3 cup chopped flat-leaf Italian parsley
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
2 1/2-3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1. Rinse cherry tomatoes and pat dry with paper towels. Slice in half lengthwise and put into a bowl.

2. Peel the cucumber, then halve lengthwise. Scrape and discard seeds, then cut into thin slices. Discard any bruised outer scallion layers, rinse and pat dry, cut white and light green parts into thin slices. Add sliced cucumber, scallions and parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add vinegar and oil and gently toss to mix. Can be prepared ahead, refrigerated for several hours or overnight. Serve at room temperature.

RED, YELLOW AND ORANGE HEIRLOOM TOMATO SALAD
Heirloom tomatoes team up with shavings of Parmesan for a colorful late summer salad. Just dress with good quality vinegar and oil and a scattering of basil chiffonade.
Serves 4-6

1 each large ripe red, yellow and orange heirloom tomatoes
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon balsamic or sherry wine vinegar
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
Shavings of Parmesan cheese from a solid chunk
1/2 cup fresh basil chiffonade

1. Rinse and dry tomatoes and slice about 1/2 inch thick. Alternate the colorful slices on a serving platter. Season tomatoes with salt and pepper then drizzle with olive oil in a thin stream to coat and sprinkle with vinegar. Scatter Parmesan shavings and basil over the top and serve.

TOMATO AND ONION SALAD WITH SPICY VINAIGRETTE
Highly flavored vinaigrette adds spice to this seasonal tomato salad.
Serves 6

3 ripe, not overripe, beefsteak tomatoes
1 large vidalia or Spanish onion, sliced paper thin
Coarse Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

Spicy Vinaigrette*
1-2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon dry mustard
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1/8 teaspoon cayenne
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Dash sesame seed oil

1. Wipe tomatoes clean and cut into 1/2 inch slices. Overlap tomatoes and onions on a large oval or rectangular serving platter. Season with salt and pepper.

2. Prepare vinaigrette. Combine chopped garlic with mustard, sugar, cayenne and vinegar in a mixing bowl and stir to mix. Whisk in olive oil in a thin stream, then the sesame oil. Taste to adjust seasoning if necessary. Drizzle mixture over the tomatoes and onions and serve at room temperature.

*Note: Vinaigrette can be made in a food processor. Chop garlic in work bowl of processor fitted with steel knife. Add remaining ingredients and process until smooth.