Dan's Papers - September 5, 2008

Whether they're sewn, fused, or clipped in, hair extensions are as ubiquitous to this decade as falls and wiglets were in the '70s. Celebrities and runway models wear them all the time. And almost every full-service salon offers some version of adding hair with extensions.

The sewn-in method is probably the most expensive and time consuming. The natural hair is braided close to the scalp, and then wefts of hair are sewn to the braid. Fusing is done in a variety of ways, but rather than sewing in an entire track the extension is attached to individual strands of hair. Sewing in the extension is particularly effective for adding length and changing the texture of hair, and is used often by African-American women.

Fusing is a wonderful way of adding volume and or length. Think about it this way: sewing on extensions is like using a strip of false lashes on the eye. While fusing is more like applying individual lashes where desired. Both sewing and fusing are most often done by professionals. But the clip-on method is something you can do yourself with a minimum of skill.

You can find clip-on extensions almost everywhere, occasionally even in T. J. Maxx and K-Mart. Jessica Simpson has her own brand. These clip-on strips of hair usually have a small comb attached to the strip - rather than a clip, and are made of synthetic hair rather than human.

However, if you want a clip-on extension that is a better quality, or one made of human hair, Suzy Alvarez, principal hair and wig designer of City Opera at Lincoln Center suggests several sources. An online source is His Her Hair at hisandher.com. If you prefer to see, feel and match the color of your hair you can find a large selection of extensions at Helena, on West 31st Street between Sixth and Seventh Avenues.

When choosing a color Alvarez suggests, "going a shade lighter than your natural hair color. This will give the illusion of dimension."

If your main objective is to add length to your hair Alvarez says, "Always begin applying the extensions from the bottom first. Start near the hairline just above the nape of the neck." You will need to measure the extension to the shape and curve of your head and trim accordingly.

If you want to add volume to layered hair you may need to trim the length of the hair on the extension so it's not longer than your natural layer. You can trim it by just snipping from the ends. If you think clip-on human hair extensions are something you're going to use often you may want to consider buying a canvas head block and stand. This way you can trim, wash and even curl these pieces of hair with an iron, something you could never do on synthetic hair.

"The trick to putting the clip-on extension in your hair, and keeping it there, is getting the clip or comb close to the scalp," says Alvarez. She also cautions not to put any extensions near the sides or near the front hairline. This will add too much bulk and it will be easy to detect where the extension is.

If you want to try extensions, experiment with the inexpensive synthetic versions. If you find you're hooked you may want to have some extensions professionally applied. Those will last for weeks or even months and you can wash and style your hair as usual.

But if you want some hair just for now, buy some and start practicing.

Janet Flora writes lifestyle and beauty features, and is a former contributor to Make-up Artist and Health magazines. A creative writing teacher and fiction writer, she spends her time in New York and Sag Harbor.