Dan's Papers - August 29, 2008 - Simple Art of Cooking

The sun still warms us, the beaches will continue to give us pleasure, and the colorful farm stands and farmers markets with their fresh array of local goodness will nourish us for many weeks (and months) to come. Yet, Labor Day weekend, the official end of summer, has arrived.

In this socially busy season brimming over with benefits, and all manner of activities, parties, etc., I've got some simple solutions for perhaps a family barbecue for two to whatever. Grilled chicken with sage and lemon is one of my all-time favorites for chicken on the grill. When chicken is cooked on the bone and careful attention is paid to the grilling process, juicy and succulent results are your reward. For steak lovers, a porterhouse is the steak of choice for the grill. When teamed with the sweet deliciousness of roasted garlic butter melting into the crusted grilled steak sets the taste buds watering.

A do-ahead summer slaw smacking with sweet Asian flavors and a bit of heat is the perfect accompaniment to either meat. Lots of local freshly cooked corn and sweet tree-ripened peaches from local orchards at the peak of their pleasure and you've got a party. Have a happy, a safe and a savory Labor Day weekend.

MARINATED CHICKEN ON THE GRILL
When it comes to grilling chicken I prefer to work with chicken on the bone. It may take longer to cook than a hamburger or a boneless piece of beef but it will be moister than a boneless chicken breast. Time your grilling carefully for juicy golden brown results.
Serves 4

1 3 1/4 - 3 1/2 pound chicken, cut into eighths
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
Handful fresh sage leaves
Coarse (kosher) salt
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1. Clean chicken of excess fat and debris. Rinse well and dry on paper towels. Transfer to a large bowl and pour over remaining ingredients. Cover with plastic wrap and marinate in refrigerator for several hours or overnight.

2. Bring to room temperature before ready to cook.

3. Prepare a charcoal or gas grill to medium high. Brush the grill grate with oil and when appropriate heat is reached arrange the chicken pieces skin side down. Cook the thighs and legs about 7 minutes on each side and breasts about 5 minutes on one side and 4 minutes on other side. Flare-ups will undoubtedly occur from the fat in the skin. Cover the grill for a couple of extra minutes to be sure the chicken is cooked through. Move the chicken pieces around with tongs to cooler sections of the grill as necessary. Chicken should emerge crisp and golden brown with juices running clear. Serve warm or at room temperature.

GRILLED T-BONE STEAK WITH ROASTED GARLIC BUTTER
A T-bone steak is really two steaks in one. The leg of the T separates the small tenderloin portion from the longer top loin. Most beef die-hards profess that T-bones taste best when grilled. The garlic butter can be prepared ahead, frozen and used as needed.
A T-bone steak, at least one-inch thick, weighing about one pound, will serve 2, even 3

For the roasted garlic butter
1 whole medium head garlic
1 cup unsalted butter, softened
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper

For the steak
1 1 1/4-inch thick porterhouse steak, about 1- 1/4 pounds
Coarse (kosher) salt
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1. Wrap head of garlic loosely in a foil packet and place in a preheated 400-degree oven for 45-50 minutes until garlic cloves feel soft to the touch. Remove from oven and when cool squeeze the flesh from each clove into a bowl. Add the softened butter, salt and pepper to taste and mash with a fork until well blended and smooth. Transfer the mixture to a square of wax paper. Shape the butter into a cylinder on the paper and securely wrap around the log. Close with tape and freeze. When ready to use, slice off frozen disks of butter at serving time. Return unused portion to freezer for up to one month.

2. When ready to cook your steak build a hot fire on the grill. While the grill is heating up, generously season meat on both sides with coarse salt and a drizzle of olive oil. Put the steak on the grill and don't move it for at least 5 minutes. Turn and cook on the other side for 4 minutes for medium rare or 5 minutes for medium. A reading with an instant meat thermometer is 125 degrees for rare, 135 degrees for medium rare and 140 for medium. Beyond that you will have shoe leather. Transfer to a cutting board and allow to rest for about 5 minutes for juices to recede back into the meat.

3. Slice the meat and serve on warm plates. Top with disks of garlic butter and allow butter to melt into the warm meat. Enjoy!

SUMMER SLAW
Slaws are one of the most popular summer vegetable salads to accompany all manner of foods such as grilled meats and seafood dishes. They are the perfect transportable food for picnics and barbecues.
Yield: about 8 cups

3-4 cups shredded white cabbage
3-4 cups shredded red cabbage
3 carrots trimmed and shredded
Julienne of small red pepper
Julienne of small yellow pepper

For the dressing
2 tablespoons sugar
6 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
1/4 cup mirin, Japanese sweet rice wine
1/3 cup honey
1/2 teaspoon Tabasco

1. Trim the cabbages of their core, cut into wedges and shred in a food processor fitted with slicing blade in place. Transfer cabbage to a large bowl. Remove slicing blade and replace work bowl with shredding blade. Scrape carrots with a vegetable peeler and cut them into the approximate width of the opening in the cover of the food processor. Shred carrots and add them to the cabbage.

2. Core and seed the peppers; cut them into quarters then into fine julienne. Add to the mixing bowl with the cabbage and carrots.

3. Combine dressing ingredients in a separate bowl and whisk to thoroughly incorporate flavors. With a rubber spatula scrape the dressing over the vegetables and toss to coat the ingredients. Allow to marinate overnight, stirring once. Slaw can be prepared up to 2-3 days ahead. Refrigerate in a suitable container until ready to serve.