Dan's Papers - August 29, 2008 - Letter from the Editor

Shelter Island's Bridge Street, a block-long thoroughfare just down the hill from "The Heights," is famous for many reasons, not the least of which is its proximity to the elite village of waterfront estates lining Dering Harbor. Despite this the street remains a bit of a welcome throwback to simpler times. Though the eponymous bridge is a rather non-descript affair connecting Chase Creek to Dering Harbor, the street is home to several iconic Island landmarks.

The Dory is an old-fashioned bar and waterside restaurant, and the gas station at the end of the street is the oldest family-run Mobil station in the country. It is owned by the Piccozzi family who purchased the property, along with the waterfront yacht facility (a former coal yard), in 1927. The offices upstairs arguably have one of the best water views in the world.

You'll also find Jack's Hardware and toy store, owned by Mike Anglin, beloved to all yachtsmen and fishermen who live on the Island. Need a rod, a reel, a fender or even a mooring? Mike is the go-to guy. He'll even weave an eye into the end of a line the old-fashioned way! Then there's Bliss Department Store. You'll find caps, tees and car magnets emblazoned with the Island logo next to such necessities as ice cube trays and shower curtains.

But perhaps the most well-known destination to Island visitors is the food market. For years known as the Island Food Centre, the market was a destination for gourmet items as well as sandwiches and coffee. But last winter the market closed and its windows were mysteriously shrouded in paper. Slowly hints about its future appeared. Clearly there was a lot of activity going on behind that paper. Then one day gold letters appeared spelling out the market's new name: Reddings, Purveyor of Fine Foods. Mystery solved.

The endeavor is the brainchild of owners Ann Redding and Matthew Danzer, a charming young couple who met in the kitchen at Thomas Keller's Per Se, the top Manhattan restaurant, where Matthew was chef de parte. Before ending up at Per Se, Matthew was going to school for photography when he realized that he really wanted to do that as a hobby as opposed to a career.

"Years ago a friend of mine was a cook at The Birchwood (a restaurant in the Polish Town section of Riverhead) and he called me and asked if I could help him out in the kitchen because someone didn't show up for work," said Matthew. "I said sure, why not. While I was there I realized how much I enjoyed cooking professionally." The chef at the restaurant took notice of Matthew's ability and gave him a flyer from the Culinary Institute of America (CIA). After eight months at the Birchwood Matthew attended the prestigious school and headed to New York after graduation, where he eventually met Ann.

Originally the couple thought about opening a restaurant on the North Fork, but when a friend suggested they look at the space on Shelter Island, it was love at first sight. After months of renovations, many of which they did themselves, they opened for business Memorial Day weekend after staying up till 5 the night before getting ready for the big day and dashing home for an hour's sleep. Judging by my many visits this summer, they are on track to become one of Bridge Street's classics.

Regulars will be happy to find many specialty items as well as fresh produce, beer and packaged goods with an emphasis on organic products (even the plastic bags they put groceries in are biodegradable). Fresh meats (hormone and antibiotic free) and fish (often local) are offered along with cured and smoked versions. Cheeses, from Artisanal, are sold ripe and ready to eat. Try the Langres, a cow's milk from France, if it's available. It will run from the rind if left at room temperature and turned upside down on a plate. Blue Duck Bakery delivers local bread six days a week (the market is closed Wednesdays), and those with a sweet tooth will delight in the gelatos, sorbets, cupcakes and even made-to-order cotton candy in a rainbow of flavors.

Housemade staples include Ann's wonderfully flavorful lentil salad with carrots, a flank steak salad with greens and a sherry vinaigrette, roasted beets, lobster salad and cold sesame soba noodles. A salad made with a grain called faro is delicious and toothy with sundried tomatoes and bits of arugula. Made to order lunches and dinners are offered daily, often including Kobe beef burgers, lobster rolls and great fried chicken.

But this writer's personal favorite is Matthew's Long Island duckling. It is amazingly succulent and a bargain at $21.99 (easily serves three to four). I recently stopped by and asked Matthew how he achieved this effect. His secret is curing the bird overnight in a mix of Szechwan peppercorns, kosher salt and sugar, then roasting it for about one hour in a convection oven in a savory meringue of egg whites and sherry. After resting for four hours in the cooler it goes for a quick dip in the fryer to crisp the skin and seal in juices. Matthew will also bone the duck for you if you wish. It is also cooked a bit on the rare side, so plan to reheat in a covered pan in the oven if you like it more well done. Just remember to order in the morning for the evening as this dish takes some time to create.

One of the pleasures of living in a small community like Shelter Island is being able to shop for great food and fine wine without having to get back in your car. Across from Reddings you'll find Shelter Island Wines & Spirits, owned by Bill Schmitz. The shop, where you'll find either Bill or Dawn LoBue behind the counter, offers a good selection of foreign and domestic wines - you'll even find some famous California Cabs such as Dominus, which is owned by the same person that owns Chateau Petrus in Bordeaux (2005 Dominus is $150) - but most labels are in the $20-30 range. I asked Matthew and Ann what they would pair with their duck from Bill's shop, and they recommend the Long Island-produced 2003 Lieb Estate Merlot (a very good buy at $24 with some nice age on it). The wine has firm tannins and lots of dark fruit, a great compliment to the duck. Bill suggested a wine from Oregon's Willamette Valley, the 2005 Benton Lane Pinot Noir ($25 and 92 points from Wine Spectator), a well-extracted wine with delightful hints of plum and delicate spices. My pick is the 2006 Trimbach Gewurztraminer ($21). The wine's bright acidity and spice are excellent foils for the rich game.

Back at Reddings, I ask Ann and Matthew, who live a short distance from the market - " we can actually see it out our windows!" - what their plans are for fall after their first busy summer season. They are playing it by ear as far as winter hours are concerned, but for now they are looking forward to the change of seasons. Matthew is excited about offering artisanal pizzas, duck confit and chicken pot pies. He also plans to make pate en croute for the holidays. And what is Ann looking forward to? Without a moment's hesitation she answers, "sleep!"