Dan's Papers - August 31, 2007 - Silvia Lehrer's Cooking Column

Ribs, a barbecue favorite, can add a memorable farewell to summer for the Labor Day weekend meal.

When ribs are on the menu, pork ribs are what most people expect. Yet beef ribs, for those who avoid pork, are satisfying and delicious. The allure of ribs, in any guise, brings to mind finger lickin', crusty edged images of a popular dish. Before cooking spareribs it is important to remove the gristly "brisket flap" that runs along the back of the slab, or ask your butcher to do it for you.

Aficionados claim the best way to cook ribs is by indirect heat with lump hardwood charcoal. I have the luxury of both a gas grill with lava rocks (in my kitchen) and a dome-top kettle barbecue with built -in thermometer, on the patio. For me it's the best of both worlds. No matter the heat source, depending on the food to be cooked, we have the option of direct or indirect heat. Steaks, chops and burgers are generally the choice for fast cooking over direct heat, usually with the lid kept open. Ribs, on the other hand, are best done long and slow over indirect heat. To achieve this divide coals on the lower grid of the grill with space in between for a disposable foil drip pan. On a gas grill, the food is placed on an unlit space adjacent to a burner that is on.

Soaked wood chips add another dimension of flavor when grilling. Soak a good handful of mesquite or hickory in water for about 30 minutes. Dry spice rub seasonings have been popular for some years. Barbecue sauces often include some sweetening such as sugar or honey, which can burn; if using, be careful to baste for the last 15-20 minutes of cooking only. Just remember - when cooking true barbecue, patience is a virtue.

A simple rub of seasoning and spice gives the food a nice flavorful crust Beef rib, cut from the rack (rib roast,) is large and meaty, and 2 ribs with side dishes make a sufficient serving.
Serves 6
12 beef ribs

For the dry rub
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 teaspoons ground mustard seed,
1 tablespoon coarse (kosher) salt
1 - 1 1/2 teaspoons chili powder
1 1/2 teaspoons paprika
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin

For the basting barbecue sauce
1/4 cup Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon dry English mustard
2 tablespoons molasses
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon coarse (kosher) salt

1. Place ribs in a large shallow glass (Pyrex) or ceramic dish. Combine the dry rub mix in a small bowl and rub the mixture evenly over the surface of the meat. Cover and refrigerate for up to 6 hours.

2. Meanwhile combine the ingredients for the basting sauce and set aside.

3. Soak wood chips for 30 minutes while preparing a wood, charcoal or gas grill to medium-high. A chimney-type starter for the coals is most efficient. Arrange hot coals on either side of the grate placing a drip pan in the center. Some grills have metal containers to separate out the coals. When ready to cook scatter the wood chips over the coals; use a smoker box for a gas grill. When smoke appears lower the heat to medium. Oil the clean grill grate with a folded paper towel dipped in neutral oil and, with tongs, draw the towel across the bars. Place the ribs on the hot grate, meat side up, over the drip pan and close the grill.

4. Cook the ribs about one hour, turning once half way. If using a charcoal grill, add 6-8 fresh coals per side to maintain the heat at about 325 degrees. Turn the ribs meat side up and baste with the barbecue marinade for 10 minutes longer until meat is tender and edges are crusty. Transfer to a cutting board and slice between the bones for serving.

Steven Raichlen wrote the ultimate cook book on barbecue. The following is adapted from The Barbecue Bible, Workman Publishing, 1998.
Serves 6-8

6 pounds baby back ribs
1/4 cup paprika
1 1/2 tablespoons freshly ground pepper
1 1/2 tablespoons firm packed dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon coarse (kosher) salt
1 1/2 teaspoons each celery salt, cayenne, garlic powder, dry mustard, ground cumin

Mop sauce (optional)
2 cups cider vinegar
1/3 cup yellow (ballpark) mustard
1 1/2 teaspoons coarse (kosher) salt

1. Remove the thin papery skin from the back of the ribs by pulling it off in a sheet with your fingers, using the corner of a kitchen towel to gain a secure grip, or with pliers. Combine the ingredients for the rub in a small bowl and stir to mix. Rub two thirds of this mixture on both sides of the ribs, transfer to a (Pyrex) lasagna dish, cover and refrigerate for 4 to 8 hours.

2. Set up grill for indirect grilling, as in above recipe, with center drip pan, wood chips and instructions for greasing the grill grate. For charcoal preheat grill to medium and toss half the wood chips on the coals. For gas, place the wood chips in a smoker box and preheat grill to high; when smoke appears, reduce heat to medium.

3. Arrange ribs on the hot grate over the drip pan or unheated side if gas. Cover the grill and smoke cook the ribs for 1 hour. 4. Meanwhile, prepare the mop sauce by mixing the ingredients, if using.*

5. Toss remaining chips on fire if using charcoal or wood chips and brush the ribs with mop sauce if using. Continue cooking the ribs until tender and almost done, about 1/2 to 1 hour longer for baby back ribs, somewhat longer for spareribs. If using charcoal, keep adding a few coals to the side of the grill until meat is completely tender and has shrunk back from the ends of the bones. Transfer to a cutting board and slice between the ribs for serving.

*Note: My personal preference, as is the author's, is not to use the mop sauce when preparing this recipe.