Dan's Papers - August 31, 2007 -

Beautifully situated on Fort Pond, just seconds away from the hustle and bustle of Montauk, East by Northeast is the place to go for an array of fine cuisine, a sophisticated atmosphere and spectacular panoramic views. With Executive Chef David Piacente now at the helm and several changes to the menu (dishes are now served in personal sized portions), the restaurant offers fresh Montauk seafood and shellfish, local produce and steaks. The ambiance - a sultry décor, sophisticated lounge, Asian accents and large glass windows - provide guests with a comfortable, calming atmosphere. Last week, my co-worker Victoria and I headed east to experience what is known to many as the most fashionable restaurant in Montauk.

Upon being seated, we were offered a choice of regular or sparking water and served a basket of warm, fluffy bread. Our server, Noelle, told us the dinner specials and took our drink order - two glasses of a local Sauvignon Blanc. Besides an extensive wine list, which features a mixture of local and international wines, East by Northeast offers many specialty drinks including a signature margarita, various saketinis and five versions of the Mojito (classic, mango, grand melon, coconut raspberry, ultimate mojo).

Victoria and I had a difficult time deciding which appetizers to order, as the menu offers a tantalizing selection of starters including an Iced Seafood Tower, Vegetable Spring Rolls, Seafood Gazpacho and Asian King Crab Legs by the piece, just to name a few. After much contemplation, I went with the Peking Duck Tacos and Victoria opted for the Fried Squid Salad. The tacos with Hoison Barbecue Sauce, which tend to be a favorite among diners, were served in crispy shells, topped with avocado salsa. The texture of the duck was rich and the flavor was slightly sweet, as the meat was covered in an ideal amount of sauce. The Fried Squid Salad, which featured fresh local Montauk squid, was mixed with cherry tomatoes, Totsoi greens, corn and Wölffer Verjus Emulsion. Perhaps the most satisfying aspect of the salad was the dressing, a creamy sauce made from chopped corn and seasoned with salt and pepper, which complimented the fried squid perfectly. Our plates were returned to the kitchen clean.

As the sun began to set, the blinds were raised to reveal the picturesque view of Fort Pond. Diners couldn't resist leaving their tables for a moment to head outside and watch the fiery sun fade into the Montauk landscape. Some diners even took pictures from inside the restaurant. Not a bad intermission between courses.

For my main dish, I ordered the Grilled Filet Mignon with a side of French fries and Victoria chose the Pan Seared Local Diver Scallops. My steak was cooked to a perfect medium well (just how I asked) and served with grilled mushrooms and Bacon Red Wine Sauce, and the french fries were crispy. Victoria's scallops were complimented with shrimp dumplings, Mache greens, shaved fennel and orange salad and shrimp glace. The scallops were juicy and plump, tender in the center and golden on top.

Although we were stuffed, after taking a look at the enticing dessert menu, ordering a tasty treat was a must. I indulged in the chocolate fudge brownie, served with pistachio brittle with extra virgin olive oil and sea salt, and topped with vanilla ice cream, of course - a dessert Piacente discovered last winter while traveling in Barcelona, Spain. Victoria had the Creme Brulée sampler, which offered five delectable versions of this classic French dessert in vanilla, amaretto, ginger, espresso and chocolate. Not wanting to miss out on the other's sweet delight, we ended up sharing both desserts.

Not only was the food great, the service was top-notch as well. The hardworking staff was quick, efficient and polite throughout the entire meal. Summer is fading into fall, but enjoying a delicious meal while watching a beautiful Montauk sunset is never out of season.

East by Northeast is located at 51 Edgemere Street, Montauk. Open for dinner Monday through Saturday from 5:30 p.m. and Sunday from 5 p.m. Call (631) 668-2872 for more information.