"The List": Jamesport Manor Inn

with Christopher Miller

Sometimes a wine list really surprises me, and the list for the Jamesport Manor Inn is such. The restaurant is located in the heart of North Fork wine country and it would not have been surprising to find the list either dedicated to local wines or heavily dependent on them. While there are some interesting selections and ones I find very accommodating to matching with fine and eclectic food, the selections are a bit light on local representation.

The list is organized by varietal, but this gets a bit tricky when it comes to some of the wines from Spain, Italy and France, where varietal is only part of the equation. For instance, where do you place wines such as Chianti Classico or Mas de Daumas Gassac Rouge? One is based on Sangiovese with other varietals allowed in the blend and the Daumas is a complex blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (mostly), Merlot, Syrah, Tannat, Malbec and Cabernet Franc, plus the possible addition of a few others. But given the compact size of the list, the format works fairly well if you have a bit of interest and knowledge of wine. The prices seem quite fair, though there are a couple of oddities. For instance, almost all the wines cost less than $100, then there is Chateau Montelena Estate 2003 listed at $140 a bottle, which is actually quite a good price, just so much higher than the rest of the list. But regardless of my little issues there are a number of wines I would quite enjoy with the restaurant's fine food and they can be found at reasonable prices.

Christopher Miller is Dan's Papers' "Wine Guide" Senior Wine Writer. Mr. Miller is a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, an Advanced Sommelier with the Court of Master Sommeliers, a wine consultant for Sherry-Lehmann and wine educator. He is teaching a Captain's Course at Stone Creek Inn in the fall. Visit his website noblewines.com or email csm@hamptonswineclub.com

Christopher's Picks at Jamesport Manor Inn

Reds I'd order from this list:
Paumanok Assemblage 2004 at $50 - a very good price for this wine, which is often one of Long Island's finest reds. Pair with the steak au poivre.
Mas de Daumas Gassac 2004 at $57 - about 80 percent Cabernet, this wine can often cost $40 or more dollars at wine store. Pair with the hanger steak or steak au poivre.
Cape Mentelle Shiraz 2004 at $42 - an aromatic balanced Shiraz from the cool Margaret River region of Western Australia. Pair with duck breast.

Whites, Rosés I'd order from the list:
Lagar de Cervera Rias Baixas (Albarino) 2006 at $35 - perfumed yet crisp and clean. Pair with lobster bisque or lobster risotto.
Livio Felluga Pinot Grigio, Alto-Adige 2005 at $45 - rich and tropical Pinot Grigio with lovely balance. Pair with roasted chicken.
Chateau Pibranon Bandol Rose 2005 at $47 - spicy and fresh red berry, very elegant Rose from the best region in Provence.
Ruinart Rose, Reims, France at $90 - pair with mustard and hazelnut crusted salmon.
Riesling, Dr. Loosen, Mosel-Saar- Ruwer, Germany 2006 at $24 - classic Mosel style Riesling. Nice notes of pear and ripe apple. Pair with lobster risotto.

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