To The Manor Reborn

An Elegant Landmark Rises From The Ashes And Welcomes A New Toque In The Kitchen

By Harriet Reilly

Located on a pretty rural road, the Jamesport Manor Inn is a beautifully rebuilt historic building as cheerful and accommodating as any on the North Fork which, in its capaciousness, is actually more reminiscent of a Hudson Valley or California wine country restaurant. Surrounded by lovely old trees with ample parking, it is nestled on Manor Lane between the Main Road and Sound Avenue.

The building itself is a totally new reconstruction of a landmark built in the mid-19th century by a sea captain and later run as a restaurant for about thirty years until 1999. Current owners Matt and Gail Kar, who also own the Country Kitchen on the Main Road in Jamesport, had just completed a restoration of the original building when the structure suffered a total and heartbreaking destruction by fire just weeks before they were about to open it in 2005. Not to be deterred, the Kars decided not only to rebuild, but to actually replicate the original building from the ground up, faithfully copying the original. Today the inn proudly stands, a testament to the dedication of its owners, welcoming guests with its gracious staff.

The decor is minimal and elegant, relying instead on the large windows, fireplaces, and beautiful architectural details to reinforce the wine country feeling. There is a small bar to the left as you enter and several different seating choices in the high-ceilinged and beautifully wood-lined interior. Upstairs there is an art gallery and another small dining room. There is also ample space for catered weddings and other large parties.

The new venue is already well attended, as a recent evening proved.

A last minute reservation yielded a very full dining room, and this reviewer and companion were surrounded by two large parties enjoying a family birthday and a boisterous night out, so the noise level was a bit high. This was eased somewhat by the wait staff, which was very solicitous and helpful.

The kitchen is under the direction of Executive Chef Eric Rickmers, a native Long Islander influenced by his extensive travels as well as a former post at Westhampton's legendary Starr Boggs. The menu, which features many local ingredients, has so many interesting choices that we immediately knew we would have to come back. Eleven appetizers and eleven entrees, each combining interesting local ingredients, made for serious choosing.

Since it was one of the few cold, rainy nights of summer, we chose the duck strudel, which combines duck confit, Savoy cabbage, roast shallots, brandied cherries and crushed pistachios with pomegranate molasses over the cold cucumber and yogurt soup with oyster and caviar. We were tempted by the lobster and corn bisque and jumbo lump crab cake accompanied by a cranberry bean salad and remoulade sauce, but decided on the seared Hudson Valley foie gras with black mission figs, arugula and balsamic syrup, as well as a salad of Satur Farms romaine, sucrine lettuce and grape tomatoes.

These were all beautifully served in large portions. The generous serving of warm duck strudel was crisp on the outside, soft and rich within, and the sweet/sour pomegranate syrup was a perfect foil. The foie gras was beautifully seared, melting inside, and was nestled on piquant balsamic syrup dressed with young arugula accompanied by the figs as well as crisp walnut raisin toast.

The interesting play on a Caesar salad was so much more inviting than the usual cliché, with the lettuce piled high in a fluffy circle and the crostini laden with white anchovies on top. The greens and fish were well accompanied by a tart lemon vinaigrette and full flavored Parmigiano Reggiano shavings. There was perhaps a tad too much dressing but it was so delicious that what remained was eagerly sopped up with rounds of the delicious Tom Cat Bakery crusty baguette served that night.

Our entrees were a lobster risotto, which was beautifully executed, very creamy and perfumed by black summer truffles and incorporating sweet corn, mussels and pecorino tartuffo, and seared calves liver with applewood smoked bacon and caramelized Vidalia onions. Here is a classic dish enhanced by crisp, perfectly cooked narrow green beans and mashed potatoes. It was hard to choose from a menu that offered so many different and enticing main courses, such as local Crescent Farms duck breast with chorizo, duck confit and a port jus, to name just one. I plan to go back to try the sauteed shrimp with fried green tomatoes, fresh corn grits, shaved serrano jamon and spicy beurre blanc, as well as the prime hanger steak with pommes Anna, green beans, and tomato and Roquefort salad with a Lenz Cabernet demi glace.

Though justice would be better done in the fall and winter months to the delicious signature dessert of drunken cherry pistachio bread pudding, the plum tart was a true summer treat, rich and fruity and accompanied by vanilla ice cream.

The menu provides extensive descriptions of the ingredients in each dish, and all the dishes we tasted were a delightful surprise in their attractive and generous execution.

Lunch appetizers range from $8 for the aforementioned soups to $12 for Malpec oysters on the half shell with mignonette and cocktail sauce; entrees from $11 for what sounds like a delectable BLT made on brioche with basil mayo, arugula, roasted tomatoes and applewood smoked bacon, to $18 for a Salad Nicoise. There is also a brunch menu with many of the same lunch items, including seared spicy calamari, tuna tartar, and eggs benedict made with jamon serrano served with roasted potatoes for $18, or crab cakes for $24. Dinner appetizers are $8-$12 except for the foie gras ($18) and entrees are $26-$28 except for the bucatini pasta ($24), lobster risotto ($30), veal chop ($32), and the prime sirloin au poivre with rapini, mushrooms and pommes Anna at $40. Desserts are $8-$9.

An interesting menu with wide choices combined with attractive presentation, generous portions and distinct flavors make this a must-do dining choice whether you arrive from the Hamptons, the North Fork, or stop in on your way out from NYC to the East End. The wine list has a broad selection from local, Californian, Italian, Spanish and a few French vineyards (see Chris Miller's assessment of the list following this review).

Hats off to Chef Rickmers and Matt and Gail Kar for serving wonderful food seven days a week at this excellent restaurant in North Fork wine country.

For more information and reservations call 631-722-0500, or visit the website at www.jamesportmanorinn.com

Harriet Reilly, who holds a Cordon Bleu Grande Diplome and a Certificat Aptitude Professionel from the Ecole Hoteliere de Paris, is a member of Les Dames d'Escoffier. Ms. Reilly lives and writes on Shelter Island.

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