Dan's Papers - August 15, 2008 - Simple Art of Cooking

Cold soups were on my agenda for this week's column. The timing couldn't have been more fortuitous when three remarkable chefs, George Mendes, Guy Reuge and Gerry Hayden, served forth three superlative chilled gazpachos, each one simple, unusual and delicious at the James Beard Foundation's annual Chefs and Champagne event held at Wölffer Estate Vineyards in Sagaponack on July 26.

The mission of the Foundation is to celebrate culinary excellence in the United States with support for culinary scholarship programs. All 36 talented chefs represented at the event offered some of the most delicious varieties of cuisine. The significant honoree was Wolfgang Puck, who lauded Long Island as a vegetable garden with great vineyards surrounded by seas offering the best fish and seafood varieties. "Food and wine in America is why we are where we are today," he continued.

George Mendes, a Culinary Institute of America graduate, worked with his mentor David Bouley and had "dream jobs" at some of the best restaurants here and abroad. He will open his own restaurant, Aldea, later this year in New York City. His classic but simple "overnight" red tomato gazpacho has the freshness, the texture and tang to titillate your taste buds. Guy Reuge of Mirabelle attracted global attention when he was awarded La Toque d'Argent, a much sought culinary award from the Society of Master Chefs of France. He and his wife Maria celebrated 24 years of their restaurant in St. James. He gives us a unique watermelon gazpacho.

Many of our readers will remember Gerry Hayden when he opened East Hampton Point as executive chef in 1993 through 1995. He was executive chef at Charlie Palmer's Aureole in New York City and chef/owner of Amuse restaurant in New York City before returning to Southold, where he opened the North Fork Table and Inn with his wife, Claudia Fleming, pastry chef extraordinaire. Just assemble the ingredients for his chilled white grape gazpacho, blend, chill, pour and voila - a delicious soup to cool the palate.

4 large ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped coarsely, about 3 cups
1 Kirby cucumber, peeled, seeded and cut coarsely
1 medium red bell pepper, cored, seeds removed and chopped coarsely
1/2 medium onion, peeled and chopped coarsely
3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped coarsely
1 cup cubed day old crusty bread
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
2 tablespoon raspberry vinegar
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Tiny cubes brioche toasted for garnish

1. Rinse tomatoes, cut a criss-cross on the rounded side and blanch them in boiling water for 30-40 seconds until the skins loosen. Cool under running water then peel and seed the tomatoes. Chop coarsely and place them in a large bowl. Rinse and prep cucumber, bell pepper, onion and garlic. Add to the tomatoes. Top with the cubed bread, the olive oil, and vinegars. Carefully stir to mix and season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover the bowl securely and refrigerate for 24 hours or longer.

2. Next day, place the ingredients in batches as necessary, and blend at high speed until mixture is a smooth, but slightly thickened consistency. Taste to adjust seasoning as necessary. Can be prepared ahead and refrigerated up to 2-3 days. Serve cold with brioche garnish

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium size onion, thinly sliced
1 fennel bulb, trimmed of fronds and core and thinly sliced
1/2 tablespoon coriander seeds
1 star anise
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
1 cup dry white wine
4 large or 6 medium red bell pepper, cored, seeded and coarsely cut, about 5 cups
The flesh of half a large watermelon, about 8 cups cut coarsely
1 teaspoon dried epazote*

1. In a large 5-6 quart saucepan heat the oil; add onion and fennel slices, coriander seeds and anise. Place a square of wax paper over the ingredients, cover the pot and sweat the vegetables and seasonings over low heat for 15 minutes. Remove wax paper and discard. Add white wine to deglaze the pan and simmer briskly until reduced by one-half.

2. Add watermelon pieces and diced peppers to the saucepan and toss to thoroughly mix ingredients. Season mixture with salt and pepper to taste. Cook, with cover ajar, over medium heat until vegetables are tender, about 45-50 minutes. If soup does not generate enough liquid add about 1/2 cup water. (This is the amount I needed when testing the recipe.)

3. Transfer soup in batches into a blender and puree until smooth then pass through a sieve or food mill over a clean bowl to rid any excess debris. Taste soup for salt and pepper and chill thoroughly. When completely chilled, stir in the epazote which will heighten the flavor of the soup. Can be prepared up to 2 days ahead and refrigerated then taste again for seasonings.

* According to Harold McGee's revised On Food and Cooking, Scribner, 2004, epazote is a scented member of the large "goosefoot" family which also provides us with spinach, beets and the grain quinoa. It lends a characteristic aroma to Mexican beans, soups and stews. That aroma is variously described as herbaceous and penetrating.

1 pint plain yogurt, preferably Catapano dairy goat yogurt - also available at Green Thumb in Water Mill
1/2 pound seedless green grapes, washed
1/4 cup blanched and toasted almonds
4 ounces goat cheese, preferably Catapano
1 teaspoon coriander seeds, toasted
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
16 marcona almonds*, roasted, salted and coarsely sliced

1. Place the yogurt, grapes, almonds, goat cheese, coriander seeds and 1 tablespoon olive oil in a blender. Blend until ingredients are thoroughly pureed and smooth. Refrigerate the soup for 3-4 hours or overnight until ready to serve.

2. Serve well chilled with a drizzle of olive oil and sliced salted almond garnish. * Marcona almonds known as the "queen of almonds" are imported from Spain. They may be difficult to find and are a bit pricey. For my own version I blanch at least 2 cups of whole almonds, peel and kosher salt them then let them dry on a parchment lined sheet pan for 48 hours. Transfer almonds on the lined sheet pan to a preheated 225 oven for 1 hour-1 hour and 15 minutes until toasty beige. Store them in a covered tin - they make a wonderful snack at cocktail time or for garnish as above.

All above recipes are adapted from the originals.