Dan's Papers - August 15, 2008 - Muse Restaurant and Aquatic Lounge

The very business card of Muse Restaurant & Aquatic Lounge foreshadows what's to come. The card is black - not a color typically associated with dining establishments. On the gold logo is the tag line, "Inspirational Forward Cooking."

A few steps into the restaurant brings you to one of the most unusual and beautiful bars anywhere, with a shimmering water wall. The bar top itself is a horizontal fish tank (designed/built by Noel Rose of Anchor Aquarium) with gorgeous tropical fish swimming under patrons' gorgeous tropical drinks. The intimate yet uncluttered dining area is eclectic and intriguing - an odd combination of artwork, finishes and décor elements that to this writer evoked Indonesia, to another diner, Spain. The walls have a brushed goldleaf finish, the menus come in gold folders (dinner) and silver (dessert). The ceiling is dark cobalt blue on one end fading to a deep emerald on the other. Designed by owner/chef Matthew Guifferida (of Inn at Quogue among other East End spots) these elements lead another step into a wildly fantastic, highly original dining adventure.

Muse, in its second year at Watermill Center, is not for the timid or conservative diner. It's for those who are ready for combinations of flavors, colors and textures that test the resolve of your palate. Like the décor, the food is a fusion of many influences - a 'world music' texture in each dish, magnified and amplified. For example, listen to this appetizer: "Monkey Business ... An Experiment in Bananas. 1. Roast pork and charred corn tamale wrapped in banana leaves; 2. Banana crusted seared sea scallop with red curry and coconut nache; 3. Applewood smoked bacon mofungo ..." And there were two more after that. Each little tidbit was fully loaded, popping with flavor. Numbers 1 and 3 were exactly what I love about roast pork and mofungo, but without the things I hate - namely, fatty, grizzly bits. Both were lean and fresh tasting. Number 2? That should be a main course. Just delicious.

A vegetarian sushi salad was a veggie's dream: an oversized sushi offering of julienned jicama, carrots, celery, cucumber, squash wrapped in a sheath of cucumber, with a lemon grass ginger vinaigrette that makes you want to crunch every stick. A Summer Apple salad was a delicious melody of flavor and texture: crunchy frissee, granny smith slices, candied macadamia nuts, smoked salmon 'bacon' and (yes, there's more) served on a gruyere cheese bread pudding. Take that! And that!

We tried three entrees, which, with Guifferida's hyper-creativity, seemed like a dozen. The Wasabi Pea and Pepper Long Island Duck au Poivre was a juicy, meaty rolled breast of duck with what tasted like a soy marinade topped with crunchy crushed wasabi peas! No bones, no mess, just bite after bite of rich, meaty flavor. Sides were a sweet Vidalia onion duck confit, and a sweet yet potent gingery potato/apple chutney.

The Teriyaki and Sesame Seared Tuna was a great tuna steak that barely saw the searing pan, with a crunchy sesame coating. Very nice. Blackened "Mardi Gras" swordfish was slightly spicy, fresh and perfectly cooked. It was served with rich green tomato stir-fried salsa, and with cheddar cheese oatmeal which completely wowed one fellow diner. The entrée portions are generous - I would say easily shared if you got a few appetizers - and they hover mostly at the $30 mark.

Desserts were also fully realized, but after the explosion of flavors in the meal, my favorite was "The best vanilla creme brulee in the world." Lightly sweet, not too rich. The restaurant has a good wine list, and a fine selection of wines by the glass, as well as crazy mixed drinks and digestives.

Muse is a great date restaurant, especially if you start at that magical bar, as well as a good place to go with a small group and share. And by all means bring the grandparents - the cool ones.