Dan's Papers - August 15, 2008 - Amagansett Market Reopens, To Happiness

Va-va bread! Since the grand re-opening of the Amagansett Farmer's Market on Saturday, August 2, now operated by Eli Zabar, business is a boom. Take a stroll down to the market on a Saturday morning and you'll see throngs of people, some who come by bike, others who walk and those who come by Jitney or car and park along Montauk Highway among the migrating monarch butterflies.

Inside the screened-in porch area are some of the most delicious breads this side of the Midtown tunnel. Croissants, muffins, scones, raisin pecan twists, almond covered crullers and pastries from beyond. There's an area for bagel toasting and decorating (cream cheese, jelly) and coffee pouring and milking.

Unless you're buying from the farm stand (and sometimes even then if it's not marked "local"), you can't be sure whether that peach comes from Guatemala, the New Jersey Turnpike or somewhere along the Mexican border. But at the Amagansett Farmer's Market you can see exactly where the food came from - Pike's Farm, Schmitt Farms, Anderson Farms, Brieremere Farms. Store Manager Chu Brown explained, " We put where the local produce is from because it's the farms that deserve the credit. I've had some of the sweetest watermelon since I've been here. Everybody needs a piece." On the opening, Brown added, "We're still setting up and learning about our customers. It's a real farm here and different from the city. There are many more insects and we have to protect the food. Everybody seems to be pleased and welcoming."

Matt Shea, the cheese-meat-beverage-dairy man, operated the various stations at the market and explained that "business is great. People are really knowledgeable about cheese, and they know what they're talking about." There's been lots of speculation that the Amagansett Farmer's Market is going to wind up being "another Citarella" as many beachgoers this past weekend discussed, yet it seems that the vision Zabar has for his three-year contract with the Peconic Land Trust and East Hampton Town is to a provide the community with all the great, delicious foods from the East End. Zabar also discussed the prospect of a nightly market where farmers from the greater New York area can bring their wares. There's also been talk of a much coveted oyster bar opening but Brown explained, "we're focusing on breads and pastries right now, we hope to have oysters if not this season, next."

Comparing Zabar's to the "old" Amagansett Farmers Market, formerly owned by Pat Struk, there are many changes so far. Although both provide fresh items, Zabar's doesn't carry as many flowers or meats. But Zabar's does come full of prepared food items like sandwiches and other snacks to grab up and go. It's public knowledge that Zabar's is not cheap, but many believe that neither was the market under the Struks, and that - then as now - you are paying for the freshest and best of the best around town.

Question is, will Eli's Manhattan stores see more local Amagansett produce, Brown said, " I hope so. Everybody in New York City needs to try this watermelon."