Dan's Papers - August 17, 2007 - Silvia Lehrer's Cooking Column

It is only at this time of the year that we can buy tomatoes that approximate the ideal state of this prized fruit. A naturally ripened and locally grown tomato is simply the best tomato there is. Botanically speaking the tomato is a berry and its uses are infinite.

Local is the key word and many farmers are currently growing and promoting heirloom tomatoes. Picking up my CSA order at The Green Thumb in Water Mill a week or so ago, Johanna Halsey all but jumped for joy as she announced, "The heirlooms are here." My first taste of this summer's heirloom was a simple salad sprinkled with coarse salt and a drizzle of olive oil. Each bite exploded with flavor. Or give it the classic caprese pairing and serve with alternate slices of Buffalo mozzarella, ribbons of fresh basil and fruity extra-virgin olive oil. To prolong the season - ripe plum tomatoes are sometimes available slightly bruised at bargain prices. They can be cooked into delicious sauces - or slow-roast tomatoes for a colorful and tasty garnish.

In a few weeks the Quail Hill Community Organic Farm in Amagansett will hold their annual tomato tasting featuring a staggering variety of colors and sizes. Some of their delicious-sounding names are Ivory Pear, Brandywine and Wild Cherry. Check the tasting for an amazing tomato adventure.

Tomatoes are loaded with vitamins, minerals and phytochemicals like lycopene - which also gives the tomato its color. It seems the local tomato has it all - looks, flavor and a measure of good health.

SLOW ROAST TOMATOES WITH THYME
Roasted halved plum tomatoes seasoned with garlic and herbs with their sweet acidic intensity makes a perfect accompaniment to grilled or roasted dishes.
Yield: about 30 tomato halves

2 pounds ripe summer plum tomatoes
1 tablespoon sea salt
2-3 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
5 cloves unpeeled garlic cloves
2-3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Preheat oven to 225 degrees.

1. Rinse tomatoes and pat dry with paper towel. Cut tomatoes in half lengthwise and place cut-side up on a sil-pat or parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Scatter salt, thyme leaves and garlic cloves evenly over tomatoes. Drizzle with olive oil.

2. Roast tomatoes for 2 1/2 hours until tomatoes are slightly shriveled but still moist. Squeeze the garlic cloves to release the confit and spread over the tomatoes, if desired. Can be prepared up to 2-3 days ahead, refrigerated in a suitable container.

FRESH TOMATO SAUCE IN SEASON
Through most of the year when I prepare tomato sauce I use a good quality canned tomato with fine results. However there is that urge to use all those wonderful garden fresh tomatoes in season.
Yield: About 1 quart

2 pounds fresh ripe tomatoes
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large shallot, finely chopped
2 medium-size cloves garlic, finely chopped
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Pinch or about 1/8 teaspoon red hot pepper flakes
Fresh basil leaves

1. Cut a criss-cross opposite the blossom end of tomatoes. Place tomatoes in boiling water, a few at a time, for 30-40 seconds according to size. Run under cold water and when cool enough the skins will slip off easily with the tip of a knife. Chop tomatoes coarsely.

2. Place oil in a saucepan and when hot put in the shallot and garlic. Cook over medium-low heat until the ingredients just begin to color, about 40-50 seconds, stirring occasionally. Add the tomatoes and simmer about 15-20 minutes. Season the sauce with salt and pepper and dry hot pepper flakes. Allow to cool.

3. Puree the sauce through the medium disc of a food mill to discard skin and seeds. The sauce can be prepared ahead to this point. Refrigerate or freeze. Return the sauce to a clean saucepan and tear basil leaves directly into the sauce. Simmer until heated through before using.

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 shallots, finely chopped
2 tablespoons capers
2 teaspoons lemon jest
2 tablespoons chopped coriander leaves
2 teaspoons horseradish
1 large red heirloom tomato
1 large yellow heirloom tomato
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
3-4 tablespoons creme fraiche or sour cream
Red or green Boston lettuce leaves

1. Place 1 tablespoon olive oil in a small skillet and sauté the shallots, about 1 minute, until translucent. Transfer to a mixing bowl. Add capers, lemon jest, coriander and horseradish. Slowly drizzle in remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil and stir to mix. Cut tomatoes into bite-size pieces and fold into the mixture. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

2. Stir in creme fraiche and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled. Taste for seasoning after refrigeration. Serve the tartar in individual lettuce bowls.