Dan's Papers - August 17, 2007 -

From the outside, Porto Bello looks to be a smallish restaurant, but appearances are very deceptive because on entering you see that it really is very spacious. There is a very comfortable large bar and sitting area and a dining room that will hold about 100 and is very suitable for parties of all types. Then the smaller dining room where we were seated is charmingly decorated, with crisp linens, candlelight and fresh flowers on each table that certainly gives it a very continental atmosphere. Outside the covered al fresco-dining area is a great place to relax on a summer day. The co-owners, mother and daughter team of Francesca and Diana DiVello have now been in business on this site since 2002 and the restaurant is a reincarnation of the one of the same name Diana formerly ran in Greenport. She told us that when they took over the building which had laid empty for many years, it needed a great deal of renovation and upgrading and the result is a tribute to all who were involved in this project.

Diana is a great believer in developing a family atmosphere and her motto; 'Celebrate Family, Friends and Traditions' is prominently displayed on the wall near the entrance. She told us that most of her staff have been with her for many years, including chef Eric Linker, assistant manager Elias Martinez and her two hostesses Jacy and Merrie.

As you would expect, the menu has a strongly Italian flavor and we started with their namesake dish, grilled marinated fungi Porto Bello. The mushrooms were full of rich deep tastes accentuated by the roasted red peppers, the crumbled Gorgonzola and excellent balsamic vinaigrette dressing. This we both agreed was a first class appetizer that should be considered as one of their signature dishes. We are great lovers of mussels and these plump P.E.I mussels cooked in a succulent white wine and garlic broth were great and lots of bread was used to make sure that no broth was wasted!

Entrées come with a house salad and this proved to be crisp and fresh but could have been a little more chilled for most tastes. The entrée menu includes steaks, chops, chicken, veal, seafood and pasta so there really is something for all. We chose the stuffed veal chop that came out totally filling the plate and the prosciutto and mozzarella filling plus a fragrant mushroom sauce really complemented this very tasty and tender piece of veal that without any doubt also should be a house signature dish. Eggplant parmigiana was richly flavored and a large portion to satisfy the hungriest appetite. The accompanying linguini was perfectly al dente and the sauce very light and garlicky.

If you love your desserts make sure to leave some room because the choice includes many Italian favorites such as tiramisu, cheesecake, gelato, tartufo and also peach torte and sorbets. We opted for the home made cannoli and were not disappointed in our choice because the crisp fresh cannoli was filled with delectable cream - all very indulgent but nice!

Porto Bello has a short but interesting wine list with plenty of choices either from Long Island wineries or further abroad. Wines by the glass range from $7 to 8 for a very good pour and from $20 for a bottle of very drinkable wine. We drank the Mondavi Chardonnay and the Columbia Crest Merlot, both of which were very good value. Appetizers and soups start at $5; entrees from $16.95 to 29.95.

Porto Bello has developed a very loyal customer base since its opening and it is easy to see why with such personable service and good consistent food. Their reputation is also shown by the increasing number of corporate events they are catering and Diana was very proud that they have been chosen to cater the upcoming 100th Anniversary Celebrations of the Mattituck Fire Department on September 8.