Dan's Papers - August 8, 2008 - Simple Art of Cooking

I was settling into my paperback while on the Hampton Jitney one recent Tuesday when the musical tones of my seat-mate's cell phone went off. The call was a bit lengthy, and I was getting a bit uncomfortable, but when the call ended, she apologized. Traveling on the Hampton Jitney can be an adventure - sometimes a pleasant kind of adventure as it turned out to be in this case. Karen, as it happened, was into food - no doubt one of my favorite subjects!

She had visited friends in the Hamptons the previous weekend and chatted about an impromptu outdoor luncheon gathering for four persons, which turned into six and ended up as a party of eight. What to do at the last moment? Someone suggested getting lots of shrimp and corn and salad and all participate - great idea! With four pounds of shrimp to shell they decided to have a shrimp boil where the shrimp are cooked in their shells in a court bouillon (vegetable seasoned water) with beer. The recipe they looked to was from the iconic Craig Claiborne's New York Times cookbook. And doesn't everyone have that book?

What fun, I thought, sitting and enjoying what amounted to finger food and eating in messy splendor. Accompany your own shrimp boil with our sweet local corn - simply the best when dripping with butter or you can prepare a crunchy and delicious wheat berry and corn salad. It's a do-ahead salad and it's ready when you are. Start with a plate of local cheeses, radishes and olives and a celebrated East End rosé wine. Luscious boxes of dark purple and green figs are currently available at the market place - just dollop with a little creme fraiche and drizzle of honey - to complete a terrific Sunday lunch on the patio.

2 pounds size large shrimp
2 twelve ounce bottles or cans of beer
2 cloves garlic, peeled
2 teaspoons coarse (kosher) salt
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon celery seed
1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf Italian parsley
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
Juice of 1/2 lemon, about 2 tablespoons

1. Cut along the upper curve of each shrimp and rinse away the black waste matter, but do not remove the shells.

2. Combine the remaining ingredients in a large saucepan and bring to a boil. Add the shrimp all at once and return to the boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, maintaining a lazy surface boil. Cook the shrimp, uncovered, 2-3 minutes depending on the size of the shrimp.

3. Drain the shrimp and serve hot with plenty of melted butter, seasoned with lemon juice and Tabasco sauce. The shrimp may also be served cold with Russian dressing spiked with a little hot sauce.

Adapted from The New York Times Cook Book, Craig Claiborne, 1961

WHEAT BERRY AND CORN SALAD
Wheat berry, a whole grain, lends its nutty goodness to this fresh from the farm summer corn salad. If not available at your local grocer, wheat berries can be purchased at a health food store.
Serves 6 - 8

To cook the grain
2/3 cup wheat berry
2 cups water
1 teaspoon coarse salt
1 tablespoons unsalted butter

For the salad
3-4 ears fresh young corn, husked
1 bunch scallions, rinsed, trimmed and white and light green sliced thin
1 small sweet bell pepper, red, yellow or orange, seeded and cut into tiny dice
1/2 small red onion, cut into tiny dice, about 1/3 cup
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoons white wine vinegar
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 - 2 tablespoons finely chopped flat leaf Italian parsley

1. Toast 2/3 cup whet berries in a small skillet over medium heat for 4 - 5 minutes, stirring occasionally until the grains smell toasty. Pour into a strainer and rinse under cold water for 5 seconds. Transfer to a saucepan with 2 cups cold water and let soak for 1 hour or longer. Bring the wheat berries with the soaking water, salt and butter to a boil, adjust heat to a brisk simmer and cook with cover ajar for 45 minutes to 1 hour or until the grains are tender but still have a bite. Let cool in the saucepan and drain.

2. Boil the corn in salted boiling water for 2 minutes. Drain and when cool enough to handle, scrape the kernels off the cob with a slicing knife. Then scrape the ears with the back of a knife to remove any remaining flesh. Transfer to a bowl and add the drained and cooled wheat berries, the scallions, bell pepper, onion, salt and pepper. Add the olive oil and toss to coat then add vinegar and lemon juice and toss gently to mix. Taste to adjust seasoning as necessary. Can be made ahead to this point and refrigerated covered in a suitable container. When ready to serve, bring to room temperature and sprinkle with parsley.

FIGS WITH CREME FRAICHE AND HONEY
Pretty to look at and delicious to eat.
Serves 4-6

1 pound fresh figs
1 cup creme fraiche
2 tablespoons pure honey
Biscotti cookies, optional

1. Rinse figs gently in a colander then pat dry with a clean kitchen towel. Slice figs in half lengthwise and arrange them cut-side up in a concentric circle on a platter. Mound the creme fraiche in the center of the platter.

2. Drizzle the honey over the figs in a thin stream and serve with a basket of biscotti, if desired.