Dan's Papers - August 8, 2008

Sagaponack's Wolffer Estate Vineyard, one of Long Island's most recognizable and accomplished wineries, is celebrating its 20th anniversary with six limited-release wines that "push the boundaries of Long Island winemaking."

Roman Roth, hired by Christian Wolffer in 1992, is known as one of the region's premier winemakers and these new wines both exemplify and challenge his winemaking acumen. Each is named for a horse from the Wolffer Stables, a 100-acre, 80-stall facility has the largest indoor riding field on the East Coast.

Five of the six wines were released a week or so ago-the Caya Cabernet Franc 2005 ($40) will be released in October-and I had the opportunity to taste three of them.

Wolffer Estate Vineyards' 2005 Cassina Barbera ($40), named for a 14-year old Hanoverian Warmblood, is 73% Barbera grown on the North Fork at Indian Neck Farm, 12% merlot and 10% cabernet franc. Medium-dark crimson with a lighter, brick rim, the nose is inviting with red cherry, rose petals, clove, black pepper and hints of brown sugar. Medium-bodied with medium, slightly-astringent tannins, it's a bit more straightforward on the palate with cherry-vanilla and just a little brown spice. Roth didn't make very much of this one, only 71 cases.

Cabernet sauvignon can be a risky proposition on the East End. In anything but the best vineyard sites, it can be difficult to ripen and often results in thin, green-tasting wines. Wolffer Estate Vineyards' 2005 Cassango Cabernet Sauvignon ($40), a blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, is proof that in hot years like 2005, Long Island cabernet sauvignons can be both intensely flavorful and elegant-and age-worthy. A rich, deep purple, it's no surprise that the nose is just as dark and intense, with aromas of crushed blackberry, black cherries and figs backed by toasty vanilla, minty-basil and faint smoke notes. Medium bodied and ripe across the board-fruit and tannins-the flavors mimic the aromas with a long earthy finish that is minerally as well. Drinking well now after decanting, this one will improve for years-even a decade or more. By the way, Cassango is a 17-year old Hanoverian Warmblood. 157 cases were made.

The most concentrated-and the highest in alcohol-of the three is Wolffer Estate Vineyards' 2005 Claletto Cabernet Sauvignon ($85) a 100% cabernet sauvignon wine made with a portion of dried grapes, in the style of Amarone. Dark, and inky, this wine's dense, warming aromas of speck-wrapped roasted figs, anise, blackberries and vanilla. Checking in at 15.9% ABV, this is a big, meaty wine with black licorice, fig, blackberry and sweet, plush super-ripe tannins. There's a hint of alcohol heat on the finish, but it's not overwhelming. This is a wine as savory and delicious as it is unique. Only 118 cases were made.

The other two celebratory wines are a Wolffer Estate Vineyards' 2003Noblesse Oblige Rose Sparkling Wine ($125 for a Magnum) and Wolffer Estate Vineyards' 2006 Descencia Botrytis Chardonnay ($85 for 375ml), a dessert wine.

To learn more about these wines or to order, visit wolffer.com or Wolffer's tasting room-among the most beautiful settings for wine tasting you'll ever experience.