Dan's Papers - August 8, 2008 - Hampton Tradition XLIX

The Milk Pail farm and orchard, located on the north side of Route 27 across from Mecox Road in Water Mill, was started by Evelyn Halsey in May of 1969. The name was the idea of some of her friends, who, while at a dinner, thought of the connection to the family's dairy background.

The original Milk Pail was situated in the small building across from the Lutheran church on Route 27 in Water Mill, but by 1972, Evelyn's husband John built her the present building. Said Evelyn, "We were married in April, and we opened in May. We were in that original small building. All it was at first was some local vegetables and a refrigerator with some gallons of local milk. John would help me set up in the morning before going to work on the farm. I just wanted to work outdoors. Then I brought in the apples."

Today, apple cider, peaches, berries and cherries join the vegetables as products the wise locals seek. In fact, according to Evelyn's daughter Jennifer, who, along with sister Amy has taken the reins of the business, The Milk Pail and other family businesses sell 15,000 gallons of apple cider a year. They have 18 acres of apple orchards with over 10,000 apple trees, along with three acres of peaches with over 2,500 peach trees.

The girls remember learning early in life about business. Recalled Jennifer, "When we were really young our parents started us out picking pumpkins. They told us to price them and sell them at the Milk Pail stand. Whatever we made we could keep for ourselves." From there, they helped whenever and however they could - even in emergencies. Said Amy of Hurricane Gloria, which struck in 1985, "My sister and I got off the school bus and went right into the fields to help pick the apples before the storm. I was around 12, and I was upset I ruined my favorite Hampton Classic sweatshirt."

The Milk Pail stand on Route 27 is closed until the middle of August when the peaches are ready, so the business in the summer is centered around the family farm located at 757 Mecox Road in Water Mill. Since 1994 the girls have run the Mini Milk Pail and Amy's Flowers from farm warehouse buildings and greenhouses located at that address. I firmly recommend a visit to the farm to see the beauty of the well-maintained buildings, orchards and other crops juxtaposed against the wide-open Hamptons sky. It is a classic American photo in every direction.

During a recent visit to the farm, as her dad was driving a huge tractor into the back of a building, I asked Jennifer what he had taught her about farming and business. She thought a second and replied, "I once heard him tell someone who said we had the best apples that God gives us the crop of apples, and that he was put here to help take care of it." She went on to say that the weather of each season has a lot to do with how things turn out, and they have to manage around the uncontrollable reality of weather, like too much rainfall, drought, or abusive heat. But, they do manage, and Jennifer's long-term goals include keeping the business small and family-oriented. "We know we are blessed," she said, looking around at her surroundings.

As I spoke with the girls, their mom and dad watched proudly nearby. The family has seen their land become worth millions, but continues the tradition of family farming that the Halseys have known ever since the first Halsey left Lynn, Massachusetts in the spring of 1640 to settle in Southampton. Not too far off in the distance, a tent was being put up for an event to be held that evening to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the Peconic Land Trust. Their distant cousin, John P. Halsey, is at the helm of that noble organization that works to preserve farming on the East End and promote the purchase of local produce.

It's a family affair that continues season after season. Next up is the reopening of The Milk Pail on Route 27. According to Jennifer, that will happen when the time's right. "It's up to the peaches," she said. "When they're ready, we'll be ready, too. It may be the second week of August, or the third."

In the meantime, the Mini Milk Pail at 757 Mecox Road is open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. When the Milk Pail on Route 27 is up and running, it will be open Monday through Saturday, 9:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., and Sunday, 1:30 to 5:30 p.m. For more information, visit www.milk-pail.com, or call 631-537-5999 or 631-537-2565.