Dan's Papers - August 10, 2007 - Silvia Lehrer's Cooking Column

A chilled soup on a sultry day is like an icy bowl of instant revival. Cold soups are basically simple to prepare and can move easily through a menu from first course through dessert. Preparing the soup one or two days ahead allows flavors to blend and the soup to chill thoroughly, which is essential. With all the high quality produce surrounding us at local farm stands there is an overflow of inspiration.

Bright red roasted beets are the basis for a tangy but light version of borscht. Chock full of diced cucumber and fresh dill, the soup is hearty enough to satisfy at lunch or a light supper with some good bread. Zucchini, one of our most versatile vegetables, teams with homegrown potatoes and onion to simmer gently in a broth. The pureed soup can be served chilled or hot with tomato and parsley garnish.

I've had a love affair with fruit soups ever since I was served a strawberry fruit soup for dessert in Miami Beach, Florida more than 15 years ago. Norman Van Aken, one of South Florida's most highly regarded restaurant chef/owners, pioneered serving soup as dessert. Plopped into the middle of the bowl was a scoop of strawberry sorbet. With blueberries in great abundance at farmers markets right now; I borrowed the idea for a chilled blueberry soup to servewith a dollop of mango or blackberry sorbet. How sweet it is!

This tangy but light version of borscht is chock full of roasted beets, cucumber and dill.
Serves 6-8

3 medium red beets, scrubbed clean
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
3 cups buttermilk
4 tablespoons fresh chopped dill
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground white pepper
1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar
1 large cucumber peeled, seeded and diced, about 1 cup
Low-fat sour cream or yogurt for garnish, optional
Fresh sprigs of dill for garnish, optional

Preheat oven to 400 degrees

1. Scrub beets under running water and pat dry with paper towel. Wrap beets securely in heavy duty foil, place on baking sheet and roast in oven for 1-1 1/4 hours or until tender when pierced with the point of a knife. Roasted beets can be prepared up to several days ahead, left in their foil wrapper and refrigerated until ready to use.

2. Slip off the beet skins with a paring knife and discard skins. Cut into chunks and set aside.

3. Chop garlic in work bowl of food processor fitted with steel knife. Cut beets into chunks and add to the food processor. With quick on/off turns process mixture until finely minced, scraping down sides with a rubber spatula as necessary. Add buttermilk, dill, salt, pepper and vinegar and process to thoroughly mix. Taste to adjust seasoning as necessary. Transfer to a suitable bowl with cover.

4. Cut peeled cucumber in half lengthwise, scrape and discard seeds with a teaspoon. Slice cucumbers into micro-thin slices, line up the slices and cut across into tiny dice. Add diced cucumbers to the soup, cover and chill until ready to serve. Soup may be prepared up to two days ahead. 5. Ladle into soup bowls for serving and swirl in a dollop of sour cream or yogurt and sprig of dill, if desired.

This fresh-from-the- garden soup is satisfying and simple to prepare. Garnish with a bit of tomato and parsley for a bit of color. Serve the soup chilled or hot.
Serves 6

1 tablespoon canola oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 onion, peeled and finely chopped
2 Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cut into small dice
3 farm-fresh zucchini, about 1 1/4 pounds, scrubbed and cut into small dice
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
4 cups chicken stock or canned low-sodium broth
1 cup half and half

For Garnish
1 medium tomato, diced
1/4 cup finely chopped flat-leaf Italian parsley

1. Heat oil with butter in a saucepan and when butter foam subsides add onion, saute for 2-3 minutes then add potatoes and zucchini and toss to coat in the butter and oil. Press a square of waxed paper over the vegetables and cover the pot to "sweat" the vegetables for 7-8 minutes over very low heat.

2. Discard wax paper and add the stock. Bring to the boil, adjust to medium heat and simmer with cover ajar about 20-25 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (Bear in mind if using homemade chicken stock it is usually prepared without salt.) Remove from heat and stir in the half and half. The soup can be prepared up to 2-3 days ahead and refrigerate in a suitable container.

3. Serve the soup cold or reheat if serving warm. Taste for salt and pepper and adjust seasoning if necessary. Garnish individual servings with diced tomato and chopped parsley.

Serve this chilled berry soup in martini glasses with sorbet.
Serves 4-6

3 1/2 cups water
1/2 cup sugar
4 cups fresh blueberries
1/2 lemon, thinly sliced
1/8 teaspoon cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon allspice
1/2 cup plain low-fat yogurt or creme fraiche
Mango or blackberry sorbet
Mint leaf garnish, optional

1. Rinse blueberries and remove any stems, unripe or bruised berries. Put water and sugar in a 4 quart saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Simmer liquid for 10-12 minutes then add 3 1/2 cup berries, lemon, cinnamon stick and spices. Reduce heat and cook at a brisk simmer with cover ajar for 15 minutes. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature.

2. Puree soup in batches in a stand-up blender until smooth (I often use an immersion blender to puree soups but caution you to use it here unless you don't mind blueberry spots everywhere). Transfer to a bowl; add remaining blueberries, yogurt or creme fraiche and stir to mix. Cover and refrigerate for several hours or overnight.

3. Serve in chilled martini glasses or bowls with a scoop of sorbet and mint leaf garnish, if desired.