Dan's Papers - August 10, 2007 -

As they say, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. If one wants to behold glowing, radiant skin, then one must delete the dead and flaky. The process can be rather daunting and confusing, so why bother?

To achieve skin-tastic results, every woman past puberty knows we must cleanse, exfoliate and moisturize. Cleansing and moisturizing is easy - pick a product you like and stick with it. But why are we anxious about exfoliation? Well, exfoliation removes the outer layer of the dead epidermal cells. The stratum corneum (outer layer of skin or epidermis) is revealed, unearthing predominantly live, virginal cells and resulting in brighter, brand new skin. After exfoliating, skin care products will enhance penetration for their active ingredients contributing to healthier skin. If the oily-skinned exfoliate routinely, they will notice a dropping off in oil secretion. If it is wrinkles one seeks to destroy, then know that exfoliation results in a diminution of fine lines. But exfoliation will not truly improve any substantial wrinkles simply because the effects won't reach the dermis where the wrinkle begins.

The skin innately experiences a perpetual exfoliation, regardless of what we do or don't do. Young skin has a greater turnover rate of cells. Therefore in youth, natural exfoliation is more rapid, and 30 and 40 year olds undergo an aggressive, biological transmutation of cells. They too may not benefit from routine exfoliation. Contrarily, many over the age of 30 acquire a lifeless, lackluster appearance due to the thickening of the stratum corneum. If your goal is to reduce oil production, then exfoliate with beta/alpha hydroxy acids. For dry and sensitive skin, refrain from exfoliation altogether or use a gentle exfoliant every now and then.

So by now you have concluded that exfoliation should be habitual in your routine. So, how often should you do it, and exactly what should you do? Do not exfoliate daily even if you have excessively oily skin. Remember, the goal here is to remove dead cells from the stratum corneum only and cultivating an ample amount of cells takes over 48 hours. Frequent exfoliation will result in stripping too many living cells, boosting your chances of damaging, irritating and thinning your skin.

Exfoliation regimens include enzyme peels, alpha/beta hydroxy acids, and microdermabrasions. Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) and beta hydroxy acid (BHA) can perform miracles for the skin, but the reality is that they are only effective as exfoliants when containing certain concentrations. Alpha-hydroxy acids like lactic (LA's) and glycolic acids (GA's) can improve the skin's capacity to heal from a wound. LA's are a derivative of milk, typically better for hyper pigmentation issues. GA's are harsher and good for exfoliating normal to oily skins. Oily and acne-prone skin need exfoliation with deep pore cleansing and whitehead/blackhead loosening; it's best to use beta hydroxyl acids (salicylic acids) for this purpose. Be careful, because skin damage or chronic irritation associated with overusing acidic exfoliants contribute to rapid skin aging. Further treatment regimens include enzyme peels, which are usually topical masks consisting of fortifying enzymes. As the mask washes off or peels away, fresh, new, vibrant skin is revealed. Mechanical peels or scrubs brighten and renew. Techniques vary at day spas, but those with sensitive skin may want to ponder another treatment.

Over-the-counter exfoliation products include precut exfoliation sheets, St. Ives Apricot Exfoliating Body Wash, Neutrogena Visibly Clear Exfoliating Wash, exfoliating mitts and Herbalism's Cleansing Wash.

Whatever you choose, do exfoliate in moderation. Consult a dermatologist for more than mild treatments and non-over-the-counter solutions. Be wise. Hear what your skin's trying to say, use common sense and get the latest information before trying anything new.