Dan's Papers - August 10, 2007 -

The Country House is a grand old former farmhouse and stagecoach stop that was built in 1710 and still has its five original fireplaces (one even contains a beehive oven). The dining takes place in several rooms and there are a couple of private rooms available for parties. Owner Bob Willemstyn oversees all the details and is, perhaps, one of the busiest of restaurant owners since the Country House aspires to create a formal dining experience in an elegant atmosphere that harmonizes with the season. Whereas most restaurants might hire a decorator to work out a design and then send him or her home after the restaurant opens, Bob keeps his decorator, Scott Wendt, busy year-round. In July, there are fresh summery formal bouquets on each table and everything from the tablecloths to the dishes displayed on high shelves above the dining areas reflect the summer season. However, all this will change in the autumn as the rooms are transformed to match the season - even the carpets may be changed. And don't forget the Christmas season at the Country House - look for the giant red ribbon and bow that will surround the exterior of the restaurant.

With all the changes that occur during the year at the Country House, one thing that never changes are the reports of a ghost that is believed by some to inhabit this old former home. The ghost is said to be that of Annette Williamson who is thought to have been murdered by colonists for being suspected of being a British loyalist during a time that the British Army occupied her home. The evidence of this ghost is such that that this story leads off the book "Ghosts of Long Island" by Kerriann Flanagan Brosky. This all makes for a busier Halloween, as it is a time to celebrate the ghost of the Country House.

The fare at the Country House is best described as creative American cooking. The food is stylishly prepared by chefs Robert Matthews and Sean Broderick. All of your favorite dishes are on the menu, but they are likely to be better than you have ever had them. The appetizers include mussels, shrimp and scallops, as well as a delightful "stolen beggar's purse" that has veggies and goat cheese in a little pastry pouch. Salads include everything from an heirloom tomato salad to the house specialty fireside salad with mesclun, pears and caramelized pecans with a tasty vinaigrette. During the summer, there is also a chilled strawberry soup that is perfect on warm, sunny days.

Entrees include a blue fin tuna with ratatouille, pine nuts and tomato vinaigrette. There is also a Pacific wild roasted salmon that is served on a bed of butter-braised Napa cabbage and served with Fuji apples with celery root and Dijon. There are also fabulous duck and chicken dishes. For those with hearty appetites, there is a steak and chop menu with selections like the "John Wayne Blackened Cowboy Steak." It is rubbed with a perfect (although quite secret) blend of spices and is served, steakhouse style, with creamed spinach and twice-baked potatoes. They also have porterhouse and skirt steaks, and even a selection named "Shari Lewis' lamb chops."

The desserts include vanilla creme brulee, sticky wicky wickets (which are those wonderful caramelized pecans again, this time with butter pecan ice cream), a summery and light chilled melon soup with raspberry sorbet (very tasty) and even a Jan's Kitchen Sink (which is named after the famous former ice cream parlor that was a fixture on Long Island for decades in the middle of the last century).

The Country House is a perfect place to dine in seasonal elegance. It was also awarded as Most Romantic Restaurant by AOL City Guide. And don't forget to come and talk to them about your wedding.

The Country House is open for lunch and dinner. The entree prices typically range from $30 to $50. A prix fixe dinner is offered Sun.-Thurs. for $36, Fri. complete dinner $45 per person and a prix fixe lunch is available. Go to countryhouserestaurant.com or call (631) 751-3332.