Dan's Papers - August 10, 2007 -

Jedediah Hawkins Inn & Restaurant
400 South Jamesport Avenue
Jamesport
631-722-2900

When we had the pleasure, just over a year ago, of being the first to review Jedediah's, it was obvious that this was going to be a restaurant fully complementary to the beauty of this lovingly restored masterpiece. So, our return was full of anticipation. Maturity has already increased the tranquility and beauty of the grounds and this mood was heightened as we sat in the elegant sitting room and talked with manager, Eileen Caroll-Renshaw. She told us that the initial popularity has been sustained and that the restaurant stayed open throughout the winter and has been extremely busy this season.

Michael Ross is the Executive Chef with Tom Schaudel, keeping a watching brief. Michael told us that he originally went to Southampton College to become a marine biologist but after working in local kitchens to help pay his way, he found that he had a real talent and desire for cooking. He then changed direction and enrolled at the C.I.A and went from one who studies fish to one who cooks them. He commented that this part of the world truly is a chef's paradise with its plenitude of local produce, duck, fish and shellfish. All of the beef, chicken and duck used here are organic and a lot of the vegetables come from the chef's garden on the premises - look out for a lot of eggplant based dishes, this year's crop is good!

The dining rooms are intimate, beautifully decorated and manage to be luxurious without being pretentious, in other words the model of what a country house should be.

We started our meal with the chef's amuse of home prepared gravlax that melted in the mouth and enjoyed the basket of tasty breads, butters and olives.

Our first course was so simple but so effective. A picture book presentation of heirloom tomatoes, perfectly ripe with just a touch of acidity that was matched by ripe watermelon, basil and Grand Canaria cheese to provide a well balanced dish. Next came pan seared divers scallops whose delicacy and subtle taste were accentuated by some delectable succotash (a blend of corn and sweet peas) and red pepper custard.

Next came some homemade ricotta gnocchi that were very light, and the superb basil broth with parmesan reggiano rounded out a very impressive dish. We would have preferred this cooked with a little more salt but of course, you can always add but not subtract.

By this time, we realized that the promises of last year have more than been met. The dining room staff are well trained and very pleasant and knowledgeable and Michael Ross really shows perfect balance and respect for his prime ingredients in every thing he cooks. If we ever had any doubts, they would have been totally swept away by the final main course. We love halibut and savored every mouthful of the wonderful halibut Veronique, pan roasted and served with grapes and baby onions and a chicken jus that was so unexpected and worked so well. This has to be a signature dish and if you love fish, order this truly exceptional dish.

Now you will find familiar desserts based on chocolate cakes, bread puddings and fruit tarts, but my advice would be to try the honey tasting. A beautiful platter holds four dishes, each filled with a different type of local honey, lavender, tangerine, wildflower and clover and comes accompanied by delectable pound cake and home made biscotti. Mixing and dipping brings you some wonderful tastes and enables an appreciation of the complexity and taste variations in high quality honey. This very different and fun dessert, plus a strong espresso brought a memorable meal to a close.

They have an excellent wine list with a very good representation of local wines. Appetizers range from $10 to 24; main courses from $26 to 38 and desserts from $10 to 12. You can also choose the seven-course chef's tasting menu for $95 per person or $135 paired with wines for each course. This choice has to be for everyone in the party and the selection of dishes is set by Chef Michael, so it is important to advise of any allergy problems. On Sunday, brunch is served for $35 and includes a drink and a lovely option for an afternoon. I recommend that you indulge in their special 'High Cheese' dish which comprises a plate of specially selected cheeses with fruit, nuts, biscottis and breads plus a glass of wine for $19.95. This is available between 2 and 3.30 in the afternoon.

Jedediah's rightly has received many plaudits for its ambience and food and all of these are fully warranted. This is exceptional food in exceptional surroundings and I am still full of admiration for the vision of those who saved this beautiful house from demolition and have created a place of visual and tasteful beauty. Come here for that special celebration or just to have a great meal cooked by a top class chef.