Dan's Papers - August 1, 2008

I'm always amazed at the change in pace when you turn off Rte 48 onto Cox's Head Road and drive a few miles though beautiful country side. It really takes you back in time. This feeling is heightened when, at the very end of the road, you see a few small fishing boats and the welcoming open doors of the Old Mill Inn, one of the oldest inns on Long Island and one that, from the outside at least, looks like a veritable smuggler's den. Actually, its history tells that it was a bootlegging haven during the years of Prohibition - it also has a resident ghost - Mrs. Holmes, the wife of a former owner.

The contrast between a brilliant sunny afternoon and the cool dark welcoming bar is further accentuated when you move into the bright and comfortably elegant dining room overlooking Mattituck Inlet. There also is a charming outdoor dining area, which is literally over the water.

Tonight though was to be something different from the normal review evening. Next door to the Old Mill Inn, Capt. Bob plies his trade during the day with fishing parties and this year he suggested that he and the inn pool their resources and offer an evening of dinner and a cruise. Now normally, to me, a dinner cruise means that I am probably going to get mediocre food and also miss the best of the sights because I am eating. Here they have it exactly right. You can come to the Inn by 5.30 on a Wednesday night, have a leisurely meal and then board the Cap. Bob V by 7 p.m. and have a relaxing cruise on the beautiful waters of the Mattituck Inlet and go out onto the Long Island Sound to watch as the sun sets. Those who prefer to eat later, simply do so after the boat docks at about 8.30 p.m.

We chose to eat first and enjoyed Executive Chef Alberto Marinato's cooking very much. Chilled watercress soup is not often featured around here but it should be. This is one of the best summer soups with its overriding hint of bitterness offset by a judicious amount of cream providing a great palate cleansing start to the meal. The soup was perfectly chilled and not icy. We simply love mussels and here there was the opportunity to try a Belgian specialty with the mussels being cooked in Belgian style beer, cream and shallots and served with the traditional hand cut fries. These were truly addictive and a nice change from the usual choices of white wine or marinara type sauces, good though each are. Salads here are large and we split the fig and goat cheese salad featuring Catapano cheese and Satur Farm greens. Barbara Pepe one of the co-owners told us that they are very proud of their suppliers of specialty local products and when you go there look just inside the main door where they display photos of their main suppliers - a very nice way of saying thanks!

For our main course, Stella opted for the rib eye steak that was a beautiful piece of perfectly cooked meat served with excellent braised spinach and crispy pommes frites. I went for the Fritto di Mare, a plate of delicately crispy very fresh local flounder, plus shrimp and some delectable scallops.

After this, we just managed a taste of the key lime cheesecake that was very light but for us needed more lime.

It is easy to see why this charming and very different restaurant has been so successful since Barbara and her co-owners took it over a couple of years ago. They offer very good well-cooked food at sensible prices, (appetizers run from $7 to $14 and main courses from $15 to $36 for the lobster bake) and have a water view that may be matched but really is unlikely to be beaten on Long Island.

Our cruise was delightful. We saw parts of the inlet that you would never see except from a boat and as we came back from the Sound into the Inlet the sun was setting with a flow of blazing colors worthy of a Turner painting, while over the Island the full moon hung pendulously waiting to take over from the setting sun. These of course, cannot be guaranteed with each voyage. The prix fixe meal served on Wednesdays at $25 plus the cruise for $20, represent not just a great bargain but a wonderful way to enjoy this beautiful part of the world that we are privileged to live in. The boat can take about 60 to 80 people but it is very advisable to reserve. At the moment they only sail on Wednesday, but based on our experience and the obvious delight of everyone else on the cruise, Barbara and Capt. Bob may soon need to have dine and cruise events on other evenings.

During August there will be music on the 15th, 22nd and 39th and a wine dinner with Paumanok is planned for August 21st. Check their web site www.theoldmillin.net for full details.