Dan's Papers - August 1, 2008

It is truly poetic justice that a couple who met at a ball at the Waldorf Astoria should start Long Island's first vineyard and winery dedicated to producing only sparkling wine. The magical setting of Tom and Cynthia Rosicki's first meeting portended a future filled with romance, and what goes better with romance than Champagne?

The pair's love of that beverage, coupled with having a home on the North Fork and recognizing the favorable climate for grape growing, inspired them to go into the wine business. Both are native Long Islanders.

After a 2001 meeting with Steve Mudd, a well-known vineyard developer on the North Fork, the Rosickis purchased a piece of property in Southold. With a vineyard already planted and managed by Steve, the couple plans to break ground this fall for a French Manor-styled tasting room and winery that will host public tastings, private parties, corporate events and weddings.

The Rosickis also contacted Gilles Martin, formerly of Martha Clara Vineyards in Mattituck and the Roederer Estate in Mendocino County, Ca., to make their wines. M. Martin is a native of France and has built a reputation for making excellent sparkling wine here on Long Island.

Current wines, made in the traditional French methode champenoise style, include a 2004 Brut and a 2004 Brut Rose called Topaz Imperial, both made by M. Martin. The 2004 Brut is an elegant sparkler rich in apple and pear flavors with a hint of toast. Full and well balanced, it has a long finish and creamy texture. The 2004 Topaz Imperial Rose earned its name from its delicate pink salmon color, which resembles the precious Brazilian Topaz gemstone. Strawberry, red cherry with a hint of cassis dominate the flavors.

Not surprisingly, the Rosickis enjoy sparkling wines "with, before and after meals as well as by itself," they said. "We feel our wines pair exceptionally well with fresh Long Island seafood and shellfish, whether cooked or raw."

The Rosickis frequently travel to Brazil, and on one of these trips met a Brazilian artist who would inspire the label design for their wines.

"The painting on both of our current labels is the creation of artist Claudio Paciullo," said the Rosickis. "The muse on the label inhabits the spirit of our wines."

In the meantime, you can purchase Sparkling Pointe wines at www.sparklingpointe.com and several retail locations, including Sherwood House Vineyards tasting room in Mattituck. You will also find it on the wine lists of Vine Street Café in Shelter Island and The American Hotel in Sag Harbor. Call 631-765-0200.

Susan Whitney Simm is Dan's Wine Guide Editor. The next Wine Guide will appear in Dan's Labor Day issue, August 29. Email ssimm@optonline.net