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Issue #19, August 3, 2007

The Roving Sommelier goes to ...

L'IMPERO, TUDOR CITY PLACE, NYC

L'Impero has a big list that boasts many great wines. The prices are a bit steep, but being around the corner from the UN is certainly not the low rent district. The service, glassware and decor are also all top notch.

As one would naturally assume, the list at l'Impero is mostly Italian, and there are many interesting grapes represented. The format, however, is not my favorite. It is based on wine weight, so under the "Light, Crisp and Refreshing" category are wines such as Tramin Pinot Bianco, Montenidoli Vernaccia di San Gimignano and Arabako Txakolina. What? The first two I get, both Italian, though from vastly different regions. But the last is from Basque country in Spain. It's a nice wine and all, but what's it got to do with Italy? I agree there is no equivalent to the Hondarrabi Zurri grape in Italy, but there are still plenty of Italian grapes to choose from.

Reds I'd order from this list:
Luigi Einaudi Dolcetto di Dogliani, $55, by the glass, $10
Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco, $160
La Spinetta Monferrato Pin (Nebbiolo/Barbera Blend from Monferrato, Piedmont), $135
Marchese Guerrieri Gonzaga San Leonardo (Merlot/Cab blend from Trentino), $105
Catell'in Villa Santacroce, $185 - a Chianti Classico 'Super Tuscan'

Whites I'd order from this list:
Abbazia di Novacella Kerner (crossing of Riesling and Schiava), $55, by the glass, $13
Tiefenbrunner Feldmarschall Mueller-Thurgau, $85
La Monacesca Verdicchio di Matelica, $70
Emilio Pepe Trebbiano d'Abruzzo, $105


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