Dan's Papers - August 3, 2007 - Over the Barrel... with Lenn Thompson

Actually, the title of this column isn't entirely accurate. I'm not actually emptying my cellar out . I've got too many wines--including some that should develop for many years to come. I have a mixed case of Wolffer Estate Late Harvest Chardonnay (from 2004 and 2005) that should age for at least a couple decades. A handful of Grand Vintage reds from Paumanok Vineyards are hidden in my cellars depths so that I'm not tempted to drink them now (they are tasting beautifully now too). There are several bottles of reds from Lenz, Roanoke Vineyards, Osprey's Dominion and Bedell Cellars that I have to talk myself out of drinking too.

The "cleaning" that I've done lately are wines in my tasting queue--wines that wineries send for potential inclusion in my columns. And, there are wines that I've already tasted--some good, some okay and some awful--that just haven't made it into print yet.

With this column, I've decided to tell you about the best that just haven't made it yet for one reason or another.

Channing Daughters Winery has been a favorite of mine for some time. Sure, sometimes the wines are a little pricey, but there are wines that are well worth it in their diverse and almost-encyclopedic portfolio for a winery their size. A favorite, year in and year out, is their steel-fermented Scuttlehole Chardonnay ($15). Fresh, clean and great this time of year, it's loaded with bright apple and pear flavors accented by just a little lemon-lime. It's just a little juicy this year, with plenty of acidity and a fleeting mineral note. I think my mother in-law said it best when she called this "a great summer wine." It's a nice value too I think and will work well with Long Island's local seafood bounty. I also really enjoyed their 2006 Sylvanus ($24), a field blend of Muscat ottonel, pinot grigio and pinot bianco. Loads of honeydew melon are joined by some pear and a squirt of lemon in this medium-bodied, well-balanced wine that is like an upscale fruit salad in a glass.

You probably haven't heard of Medolla Vineyards, but this new producer, owned by John and Denise Medolla with wines made at the Lenz Winery under the watchful eyes of winemaker Eric Fry, is worth getting to know. At $23, their first release, a 2002 Merlot, is a nice of classic Long Island Merlot that straddles the line between Old and New World, with a little rustic edge to it. The nose offers tobacco aromas along with raspberry and cherry fruit. Medium bodied, the flavors are similar to the nose with some minty, eucalyptus nuances and well-incorporated, ripe tannins. Visit their website (www.medollpavinvineyard.com) to order.

My love of cabernet franc isn't a surprise if you read this column, but who can afford to spend $25-$40 for the best local bottles? I know that I can't, so I was excited to learn about Lieb Family Cellars' Bridge Lane Cabernet Franc ($15). It's a non-vintage blend that aims to be an every day, Chinon-style franc. Smoky red cherry aromas with a little peppery spice and some tomato leaf--which I like--greet the nose and similar flavors carry through to the palate, with the leafy notes replaced by a thyme-basil note. This isn't a wine that is going to knock you over the head, but it's a nice everyday wine that should be versatile at the table too.

Last, but far from least, is Macari Vineyards 2005 Malbec ($22). Merlot gets most of the attention in these parts, malbec might be making a move. This bottling is a bold, flavorful wine and the ripeness of the 2005 vintage is obvious. It's loaded with intense black plum and black pepper aromas. The palate is rich and slightly meaty with more plum, pepper and a slightly juicy note on the mid-palate. The finish lingers nicely with a hint of spice. Sounds like a good pairing for a grilled porterhouse. Their 2005 Syrah is worth checking out too. It's another example of why merlot is far from the only game in town.