Review: The Living Room

By Susan M. Galardi

The Living Room, the restaurant at the new Maidstone Hotel, has opened and it is very interesting for many reasons. As you walk into the bar area, look up. The white painted ceiling is so ultra-shiny and reflective, you feel as though you're under a crystal glacier.

And that was the idea: ice. The bar area features bleached wood floors, sage green wood paneling, teal blue walls, and the stunningly white ceiling. Nadia Tolstoy, the design director for the entire hotel, explained the approach in a phrase that made it all crystal clear. "I turned up the volume on Nordic color - moss, sky, sea, sand and ice." And there it was: tan wood floor, mossy green paneling, sea blue walls, ice-white ceiling.

In the main dining room, the teal is replaced with graphic, black on grey floral wallpaper. Wild patterned fabric on the chairs by designer Josef Frank is the main color element in the room.

Obviously, I really like the look of The Living Room, but before you think this is one of those "talk about the décor if you don't like the food" reviews, that's not the case at all. The kitchen and wine cellar are manned by experienced professionals - James Carpenter (formerly of the American Hotel and Della Femina) is head chef, Bjorn Ericsson is sous chef, and Christopher Miller is the wine consultant.

The prices are what is to be expected in a finer Hamptons restaurant. Appetizers start at $9 for Satur farm baby lettuce salad, and go to $18 for a potato cake with "sustainable California caviar," and for the half lobster tail with herb butter. Entrées range from a $24/25 for Vegetable Napoleon, and Roasted Chicken, to $34-36 for Wagyu flank steak, rack of lamb and Veal Oscar.

Most desserts - including a goat cheese tart and warm lemon pudding - are $9. There's also a most interesting children's menu, at $12 per entrée, with offerings like Freshly Cooked Pasta served with melted yummy butter and Norwegian Salmon served with Mr. Potato purée.

We started with a lobster/corn soup - fresh baby corn kernels, flecks of chive, chunks of lobster, and vegetable dice where every flavor was discernable - it was beautiful. We also tried a scandinavian "Toast Skagen" - baby shrimp, dill creme fraische on brioches. The tiny deep water shrimp were as tender as butter, kissed with light, bright dressing.

Our main courses, both seafood, included a scallop special. First, the presentation - three enormous scallops placed diagonally on a rectangular plate, a strip of smashed potatoes beneath, and a spinach flan mimicking the round shape. So pretty. The luscious scallops were served with a spicy Rosmesco sauce for contrast. The flan, a spinach souffle of the highest rank, was rich and delicious with a firm yet velvety texture. Pan Roasted Halibut was perfectly executed, firm and fresh, served with an intoxicating purée of cauliflower and a mango chutney. With crunch provided by whole baby carrots, it was a beaufilly balanced entrée. (By the way, for meat eaters, The Living Room offers maple-soy glased pork chops, steak, rack of lamb and Veal Oscar.)

For dessert, we had the Catapano Farm sweet goat cheese tart - this is one fancy cheesecake. Creamy with bright, sharp lingonberry sorbet. The Lemon Pudding Cake was a citrus version of chocolate lava cake, oozing with warm lemon curd and served with blueberry compote.

Every dish we ordered, from appetizer to dessert, was executed beautifully. There wasn't one I wouldn't order again.

The wine list at the Living Room is one of the best in the area, with a great international selection including 20% 'local' wines, which includes New York State, and there's a great selection of good wines by the glass.

Owner Jenny Ljungberg's plan for the place included excavation of the cellars for a most unusual offering: private, individual wine cellars for members of its Wine Club. The Living Room's sommelier acts as a source for wines, locally and internationally. Members keep their own stash, which is decanted by the sommelier.

The restaurant is in full swing for breakfast, lunch and dinner. On the Friday of July 4 weekend, it was packed by 7 p.m. The tables are close and the noise level acceptable. My feeling is if you don't want to hear the music of other diners talking and silverware clicking, best to stay home. But for a very nice dining experience, The Living Room is a lovely place to spend an evening.

The Living Room at c/o The Maidstone Hotel. 207 Main St., East Hampton 324-5006.

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