Dan's Papers - July 24, 2009

Nestled on the edge of the Peconic Bay, Legends can most definitely be considered off the beaten path. The scenic but long ride there had me wishing and hoping for worthy food - and I am happy to report I was not disappointed. Legends has 15 years of service to its credit, and is owned by Diane and Dennis Harkoff, with Chef Raplh Foulkes in the kitchen for the last five years.

I caught a glimpse (and an earful) of the crowd in the pub section of the restaurant, where they serve burgers and sandwiches at more affordable prices. We were led into the formal dining area, which had low lighting, ornate fans that made me think of the tropics, and lots of plants scattered around to make one feel as if they were dining al fresco in some exotic location.

The menu at Legends consists of an intriguing blend of cuisines, with Asian influences and a touch of rustic Italian cooking as well. The appetizer list was a perfect example of the diversity of cuisines Legends offers. Baked Oysters with spinach and Parmesan was flavorful, though made for an odd texture combination in my mouth. The New Orleans style baked clams with chorizo were creamy, smoky and spicy with huge chunks of clams, although I found myself searching for more chorizo because it was so delicious.

Legends' Fried Calamari, or as they call it "Mike's Calamari" is fried and then sautéed with pepperoncini, slivered garlic and red pepper flakes, an ingenious twist on this classic starter. It's definitely not for those with a weak palette, as it packs quite a heat-packed-punch, with a much-needed tang from the pepperoncini. If you visit Legends, you must try this dish.

My favorite by far was the Thai Sausage and Shrimp in crispy Wonton cups. I could not get enough of this one. The basil and cilantro dueled deliciously for my attention, and the smoky sausage added warmth and depth. The added crunch from the Wonton cups really completed this creative and delicious dish.

The soup special that caught my eye was the Vichyssoise, a cold soup of pureed potatoes, leeks, cream and various seasonings. I found the soup to be curiously refreshing and light, and I kept going back in for more. The seasoning was spot on, just the right amount of salt, and a garnish of chives finished the soup off with that fresh onion bite.

A new addition to the Legends menu is its "Rocket" Salad, a lovely combination of tri-color beets paired with creamy goat cheese, walnuts, and dried cranberries over baby greens. The flavors in the salad were complimented by a tart yet sweet Honey-Shallot Balsamic Vinaigrette.

The choices for entrees were daunting in that there were so many. Besides a full specials menu, Legends has an array of regulars, including Seafood Cacciucco, a Tuscan dish with various seafood, Egyptian Style Pecan Dukkah Crusted Shrimp, Chilean Sea Bass with Lobster & Wild Mushrooms, Pork Chops with Spicy Peach Chutney and Pad Thai with Vegetables and Shrimp - just to name a few! We chose the Filet Mignon with a wild mushroom sauté, fingerling potatoes covered with Gruyere cheese and asparagus. The filet was melt-in-your mouth tender, and the wild mushrooms were wonderfully robust and woodsy, if a bit under salted. We also tried the Premium Angus Ribeye, another new addition, cooked Tuscan-style with Olive Oil, salt, pepper. Only slightly tougher than the Filet, you could taste the high caliber of the meat.

For dessert we indulged ourselves with divine crispy cheesecake spring rolls, Profiteroles with coffee ice cream, and the most decadent dessert I've ever had the pleasure of eating, the Chocolate Lover's Dream. It looked like a miniature chocolate cake with sable chocolate cookies for the crust, chocolate mousse in between, and a rich chocolate ganache covering the surface.

Legends Restaurant in New Suffolk may be off the beaten path, and it may be on the expensive side, but the food is fresh, and the quality of the food prepared is lovely. Legends is open for lunch everyday starting at 12 noon, and begins serving dinner at 5 p.m, 4 p.m. on Sundays. For more information call 631-734-5123 or visit www.legends-restaurant.com.