Dan's Papers - July 25, 2008

Like a bolded word in a sentence, we line our eyes for emphasis. But when I sat down to talk to New York makeup artist, Bridget Trama, whose client list includes Susie Essman, ("Curb Your Enthusiasm") Karen Duffy, Wanda Sykes and celebrity men like Chris Rock, I discovered that emphasis is only one reason to line. Eyeliner can accentuate beautiful eyes, or make ordinary eyes dazzle. Deftly applied, it can make small eyes seem larger and close-set eyes seem wider apart. "Most importantly," says Trama, "eyeliner can simply make you look less tired." In order to execute these small miracles, you need to understand the different products available. There are eyeliner pencils, cake eyeliner (the kind you wet before using) liquid liners, and the new generation of liners that are increasingly popular - gel/cream liners. Trama very rarely uses pencils. "They don't last long enough, they fade and sometimes run; if you don't need staying power then go for it," she says. But going for it, even with pencil, requires some skill. Here is what she suggests: Be sure to get the pencil (as with all liners) as close to your lashes as possible, otherwise you'll look like you have drawn a line on your eyelid. Do not close your eye or pull the eyelid taunt while applying; this changes the result when the eye is opened and in a neutral position. Hold the pencil or brush like a pen, and position it either parallel or perpendicular to the eye. Look in the mirror and steady your hand by resting your pinkie on the face - a bit awkward at first, but easy after a few practice strokes. In addition to keeping the line close to the lashes, Trama says, "The line should be thickest at the outer corner of the eyes and ?_thinnest toward the nose." This will elongate the eye and make it seem larger. The line should never go past the where the lashes start at the inner corner - if the line goes too far in it will make your eyes look close set." When it comes to lining under the eyes, Trama?_keeps it subtle. "Like the top line, the bottom should be thickest at the outer corner and gradually get thinner as it goes toward the inner corner, stopping at the middle of the iris." For a sultry look, you can line the bottom inner lid. Certainly this can be done with pencil - think of that '60s kohl liner look. But for a lasting line, Trama uses a gel product. You should use this application technique when applying a cake, a gel or a liquid liner. Although Trama says, "I never use liquid liners. They're like paint, they just don't budge, and when they begin to wear off they usually start peeling." Trama prefers gel liners. "They go on smoothly, they move with the lid, and last for hours." Her favorite is Bobbi Brown's Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner. "I love the Black Ink color, it's the blackest of blacks - and that really makes eyes pop." If you want something less intense in color, Trama suggests MAC's Blacktrack gel liner, a softer black than the Bobbi Brown. For a nutty brown try MAC's Dipdown. For any gel liner, you'll need a great brush for control. It needs to have a fine point and be stiff enough to allow you to make a smooth, straight line. One that she carries in her kit is Paula Dorf's eyeliner brush. Paula Dorf cosmetics are sold in Lavish Beauty in Westhampton and Henri Bendel in NYC. Both Bobbi Brown and MAC sell a variety of great eyeliner brushes.

Whether you're using a pencil, a cake, or gel, Trama says, "The trick to making all liner look great is blending." After applying any liner, she takes a brush, one of her favorites is MAC's # 228, and dips it in a bit of shadow, a dark brown or a black, like MAC's Ebony or Paula Dorf's Twilight or Bark, and then applies the shadow over the eyeliner. "This" she says, "takes away from making any liner look harsh." Trama always applies eye makeup before putting on any foundation or concealor. "Then I never have to worry about having any flakes of eye makeup getting under the eyes. I simply remove any excess before beginning the rest of the face."

If you want a bolder look, like Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's, forgo the shadow over the eyeliner. "It will take some practice to execute that fine line complete with the little tail, also known as a doe eye." Trama suggests doing the movement with the brush several times before applying any product. The look is dramatic, and great for evening.

Be careful however when using this kind of liner. If you make the line too thick, you could end up looking more like Amy Winehouse than Audrey Hepburn.

Janet Flora writes lifestyle and beauty features, and is a former contributor to Make-up Artist and Health magazines. A creative writing teacher and fiction writer, she spends her time in New York and Sag Harbor.