Dan's Papers - July 25, 2008 - Jamesport Manor Inn

The Jamesport Manor Inn is a building that has been lovingly and impeccably restored by owners Matt and Gail Kar, to its former beauty. In a relatively short time by restaurant standards, the Jamesport Manor Inn has built a high reputation with its delightful blend of warm, elegant but never stuffy ambience and an interesting menu that changes frequently to reflect the best and freshest of local produce.

We decide to start with the lobster and corn chowder and this immediately confirmed just how good this kitchen is. The soup was piping hot, velvety smooth, had just enough cream to make it interesting without being heavy. The lobster meat and a mirepoix of summer vegetables combined to produce a soup that we could gladly have feasted on till we were full.

Following this wonderful start, we split an order of smoked salmon from Duck Trap Farms in Maine. This came with creeme fraiche and American caviar on a perfect toast point and the blend of taste and textures made for another excellent dish.

The deep interesting blend of tastes of the duck streudel, with its blend of duck confit in a pastry case with braised cabbage, shallots, brandied cherries and some pomegranate molasses, has made this one of the signature appetizers and once you bite into it you will rapidly understand why.

Zucchini blossoms are fleeting delicacies during the summer, so the chance to enjoy them crisply fried and stuffed with goat cheese and nicoise olives was not to be lightly passed over. Also the zucchini relish was perfect and the precise dicing again showed the results of a well trained kitchen.

For our entrees, Stella chose the herb basted striped bass that was served moist and succulent on a bed of Israeli couscous where every granule was perfect to produce a truly exceptional dish, for us, probably the best ever presentation of this lovely fish. I chose the pork loin Milanese and was delighted with the beautiful pieces of pork, crisply but lightly coated and fried, served with an intensely flavorful garnish of arugula, radicchio, roasted tomatoes and pepperoni with a sumptuous balsamic syrup and lemon truffle vinaigrette. Both of these great and totally different dishes would certainly get our votes for signature dishes to be ordered whenever they are on Eric's menus.

We managed to leave a little room for dessert and were so glad that we did because the flourless chocolate cake is so much more wonderful than that rather bland description. Incredibly light and incredibly deep rich chocolate tastes make this a dessert for all you long for their chocolate fix. From our previous visit we know that the drunken cherry and pistachio bread pudding is also delectably sinful.

Jamesport Manor Inn is open for lunch and dinner, every day except Tuesday. On Sunday they serve an a la carte brunch and during the week there is a three-course prix fixe lunch for $20. At dinner, appetizers are from $8 to $14; entrees from $28 to $38 and desserts are $9. They have a very interesting and well-balanced wine list. Both the Australian Chardonnay and the Chilean Pinot Noir, which we selected from the wines by the glass list, were very drinkable and really complemented the food.

Jamesport Manor Inn has so much to offer both in terms of surroundings and food. As you eat and when you walk around, look at the beauty and quality of all of the craftsmen's work and then enjoy the work of another master craftsman, Eric Rickmers and his sous chef and kitchen team. This is a wonderful place for just a spur of the moment meal or celebrations of all types, from my favorite romantic 'diners a deux' to birthdays or wedding rehearsals. They have the facility to hold larger events in the beautiful upstairs art gallery and rooms. There also are tables outdoors in the beautiful gardens, where a cocktail and appetizer can be enjoyed before going into the main dining room

This restaurant has progressed and matured since our last visit and I have no hesitation in saying that based on our experience and watching how the well trained staff run the dining room, this is one of the very best restaurants on Long Island and is worth the journey, even if you have to come far. Reservations are recommended.