Dan's Papers - July 27, 2007 - Silvia Lehrer's Cooking Column

As the saying goes, "We all love to eat, don't we?" Well the crowds ate and ate some of the tastiest food in a single space - under the great white tent on the beautiful grounds of Woelffer Estate Vineyard in Sagaponack. The James Beard Foundation and their honored guest, Charlie Trotter, both celebrated their 20th anniversary. Mr. Trotter for his eponymous Charlie Trotter's Chicago restaurant. The James Beard Foundation's Christian Woelffer Scholarships were presented to two deserving students, Winnie Hsia and Jennifer McCoy at the foundation's Chef's and Champagne celebration on the evening of July 21.

Talented chefs from here and afar circled the tent with a multitude of creations ranging from beautifully displayed foie gras lollypops with black olive comfit, smoked salmon brochette with chive goat cheese and mango, iced tea and lemonade slush topped briny raw oysters, sweet and spicy jumbo shrimp shooters with grilled rosemary crisps, Texas dry rub baby back ribs, grilled spice rubbed meaty rib lamb chops and Kobe beef tartar with chili paste - tiny cubes of pecorino on purslane salad cooled the heat in many a dish. For dessert nothing could top the chocolate budino (pudding) topped with bits of chocolate streusel and chocolate almond biscotti. When biting into French almond macaroons sandwiched with homemade mint ice cream that melts on your palate you truly understand what the term mouth feel means.

Three of our own local chefs stood out in the crowd. Andrew Engle's home grown heirloom tomato and melon salad with Catapano goat's milk dressing, Michael Rozzi's earthy lobster and fava bean salad with smoky corn kernels and Italian summer truffles and Robert Gurvitch's chilled corn soup with chunks of sweet lobster and creme fraiche all tingled with several flavors at once.

The treasures of the table were further enhanced with guests sipping Champagne Charles Heidsieck and Wölffer Estate wines. A memorable evening indeed!

For the dressing
1 cup Catapano Goat's milk yogurt
2 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons lemon juice
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

For the Salad
1 large ripe melon such as Galia or Crenshaw
2 pounds assorted heirloom tomatoes
2 tablespoons julienne preserved lemons
1/4 cup micro arugula greens or chiffonade of basil, washed and spin-dried
Fleur de sel

1. Place the yogurt, vinegar and lemon juice in a mixing bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste and whisk to mix. Slowly whisk in the olive oil until the mixture is homogenous.

2. For the salad, peel and seed the melon, then cut the melon and the tomatoes into narrow wedges. When ready to serve, divide the greens onto 6-8 salad plates. Arrange equal wedges of tomato, melon and preserved lemon julienne over the greens. Drizzle the dressing over the top of each salad, finish with a few turns of the pepper mill and a dash of fleur de sel. Serve at room temperature

Michael cooks his lobsters in water seasoned with celery rib, fresh bay leaf and paprika. He garnished the cocktail with matchstick slices of Italian summer truffles.
Serves 6

2 cups cooked lobster meat
3/4-1 pound fava beans, blanched and peeled
1/2-2/3 cup grilled corn kernels

For the dressing
1 large shallot, finely chopped
2-3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons each freshly chopped parsley and tarragon
Coarse (kosher) salt and pinch freshly ground white pepper
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2-3 tablespoons Hellmann's mayonnaise
1/2-2/3 cup creme fraiche
Italian summer truffle, cut into matchstick, optional

1. Cook the lobsters in the seasoned water for 8 minutes to the pound. When chilled remove the meat, cut into bite-size pieces and reserve. Blanch the fava beans in salted boiling water for 1-2 minutes. Drain beans, cool and peel outer skin. Reserve fava beans. Grill corn on the cob for a smoky flavor and remove kernels when cool. Set aside.

2. Put the chopped shallot in a mixing bowl with lemon juice and herbs. Add salt and pepper then whisk in the olive oil. Add mayonnaise and creme fraiche and stir to mix.

3. Drizzle desired amount of dressing into the lobster, bean and corn mixture and spoon equal amounts in martini or cocktail glasses. Garnish with truffle if available. Serve at room temperature.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 large white onion, diced
3 ribs celery, finely chopped
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground white pepper
3 quarts chicken stock or low-sodium broth
6 cups yellow corn off the cob
Cooked lobster meat from 1 1/2 pound lobster
1 ounce spoonbill caviar (browntrading.com)
Snipped chives
1 cup creme fraiche

1. Melt butter in a large saucepan and when butter foam subsides put in the onion, celery and garlic. Sweat the vegetables by placing a square of wax paper over them and cover the pan. Cook over low heat for 6-7 minutes. Uncover pan, discard wax paper and season the vegetables with salt and pepper to taste. Add the broth and corn and simmer at a brisk surface bubble with cover ajar for 45 minutes. Taste for seasonings.

2. Puree the soup in batches in a blender or in a food mill over a bowl until smooth.

Refrigerate in a suitable container for several hours or overnight.

3. When ready to serve cut the lobster into small chunks and put into a mixing bowl. Drizzle lobster pieces with olive oil, caviar, salt, pepper and chives. Divide lobster mixture equally into serving bowls and ladle in the cold soup.