Simple Art of Cooking

A Bowl of Cherries

Silvia Lehrer

When I called Wickham's fruit farm in Cutchogue to see when their local cherries would be available, I simply got a recording stating that strawberries and cherries are done. How disappointing to learn that the small window of time for local cherries eluded me. Picking up my CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) at the Green Thumb in Water Mill, Joanna Halsey said they had sour cherries from a farm up-Island, somewhere around Calverton, I believe. That suited me fine. The small, bright red cherries, still clinging to their leafy stems, were a pretty picture. Sour they were, but Doug Gulija's (The Plaza Café in Southampton) Mom's cherry cake with cherry compote would be a tart/sweet delight. My handy cherry pitter helped me get through the process of pitting more quickly than I thought and in a way was rather calming. The cake is easy to execute and nothing was simpler than the compote, consisting of cooking the cherries with a cinnamon stick in sugar syrup.

With fresh cherries piling up at bins at most local markets, local or not, I want to prepare cherry clafoutis, one of my favorite summertime desserts. The recipe was given to me by a Parisian friend and one of the best cooks I know. We haven't visited each other for many a year and so I will visit vicariously by preparing Gracieuse's classic cherry dessert. A trip to Paris, however, would be rather appealing.

CHERRY CLAFOUTIS

This typical French housewives' fruitcake with local cherries is light, sweet and delicious - and perfect for summer entertaining.

Serves 6-8

1. With a cherry pitter or a paring knife, remove pits from the cherries. Macerate the pitted cherries in Kirsch for 30 minutes or so.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

2. Place flour in a large bowl and make a well. Pour in the milk, eggs and sugar and stir to mix, gradually drawing the flour into the well to thoroughly incorporate the mixture. Season with cinnamon, nutmeg and vanilla and stir to mix.

3. Pour about 1/4 batter into a 2-quart, buttered glass or porcelain baking dish. Place on middle rack of oven and let set about 10-15 minutes. Remove pan from oven and arrange cherries and Kirsch liquid in the partially set batter. Pour over remaining uncooked batter and return to oven to bake 30-35 minutes longer until puffed and golden brown or when a knife inserted into the center comes out clean. Sprinkle with confectioner's sugar and serve warm or at room temperature.

PLAZA CAFE'S CHERRY CAKE WITH CHERRY COMPOTE

Chef/Owner Doug Gulija's mom prepares this dessert with fresh cherries and homemade cherry ice cream at the restaurant.

Serves 6-8

1. Combine water and sugar in a saucepan over medium heat. Stir until sugar is dissolved, add orange juice and cinnamon stick and bring to a boil. Cook at a brisk simmer until liquid is reduced by half. Check cooking level from time to time. Add cherries and simmer until they are tender and bubbly, about 6-7 minutes, stirring occasionally. Compote can be prepared up to three days ahead. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

2. For the cake, butter a 9-inch round cake pan very well then dust with fine bread crumbs or flour. Cream butter and sugar in a stand-up electric mixer or with a hand mixer, about 1 minute. Add egg yolks, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Sift the flour with the baking powder and add to the creamed mixture on low speed. Carefully fold into the batter with a large rubber spatula. Pour the batter into the prepared cake pan. Toss cherries in flour to coat and spread over the top of the batter, pressing lightly with spatula to submerge the cherries slightly. Bake for 35-40 minutes or until cake tester, inserted into the center of the cake, comes out clean. Allow cake to rest in pan about 10 minutes before turning onto a rack to cool. Can be served warm with a scoop of cherry ice cream or topped with cherry compote. Prepare cake up to one day ahead and store in a covered cake stand at room temperature.

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