Dan's Papers - July 17, 2009 - Restaurant Review: Casa Basso

When I go out to eat, I don't go just for the food. I go for the experience and for the simple pleasure of dining out. I've passed Casa Basso many times. It's pretty hard to miss with its giant statues of sword-wielding musketeers that have guarded the entrance since the mid-1900s. I was mildly disappointed when I realized that the 18th century castle wasn't the restaurant (it's actually a museum), but when I stepped into Casa Basso, which is quite plain on the outside considering its surroundings, I felt as if I had walked into a castle. The décor is elegant, with a touch of Italian-inspired opulence.

Owners Bejto and Julie Bracovic bought the restaurant in 1986. But Bejto's been in the kitchen cooking since 1971, and our waitress, Audrea, informed us that Julie used to run the salad station. As an avid foodie, I love meeting people like Julie and Bejto, who share my passion for food.

After being seated in the large dining room, we were treated to warm, crusty bread and a steaming pile of Zucchini Fries. The fries were a delightful mixture of crunch, warmth and softness, complemented by Casa Basso's thick marinara sauce.

The Onion Soup Gratinee was divine, loaded with cheese and swimming with perfectly soft, caramelized onions, in a rich beef stock with a hint of mixed herbs, and a tang that I couldn't quite place. The jumbo shrimp cocktail was beautifully presented, with three colossal shrimp adorning the plate. They were cooked flawlessly, with just the right amount of crunch to let me know they were fresh.

I usually don't comment on the salad course, however, I learned that Chef Bejto's dressings are all made from scratch. I opted for the house specialty, a Dijon vinaigrette that was all the things I like my salad dressing to be - salty, tangy and slight creamy. I imagine that his ranch and blue cheese dressings are just as fantastic.

For dinner, we opted for an Italian staple, Chicken Franchaise, which our servers touted as a specialty of Chef Bejto's, and a Filet Mignon. The chicken was so tender I could cut it with my fork. The light batter clung to the chicken tenderly, and wasn't too dense or greasy. The lemon-butter sauce was seasoned to perfection, with just a hint of white wine and a ton of fresh parsley to awaken all of the flavors.

The Filet was tender, moist and juicy (and huge!), accompanied by meaty cremini mushrooms and a luscious, dark pan gravy I had to keep tasting to try and figure out. When asked what was in it, our server simply smiled and said that Chef Bejto would never tell. I can only guess that Chef Bejto has an arsenal of tricks he's learned over the last 38 years.

The best part of the evening for my sweet tooth was the house specialty - a towering Napoleon, a decadent creation with layers of flaky Phyllo dough and glorious tufts of whipped cream that was almost the consistency of a custard, but not nearly as heavy. Dusted with powdered sugar and drizzled with chocolate sauce, we were glad we saved a pocket of room for dessert.

Casa Basso offers fine Italian cuisine with huge portions, a moderately priced menu, and an atmosphere like no other. Their outdoor deck is perfect for dining al fresco in the summer months, and you'll feel like you are at home with the warm, friendly service provided by Julie, Bejto and their friendly staff.

Casa Basso: 59 Montauk Highway, Westhampton. Open year-round, Tuesday through Sunday at 5 p.m. For more information, call 631-288-1841 or visit www.CasaBasso.net.