Dan's Papers - July 18, 2008 - Simple Art of Cooking Silvia Lehrer

Black sea bass, one of the finest of the delicate white-fleshed fish, caught my eye one day as I thought of the many ways to prepare it. The fish had a lustrous sheen with taut skin and bright convex eyes. I was getting home late that day so I had the fish filleted with skin on to quickly grill on my indoor gas grill. I rubbed the fish with a mixture of salt, pepper, finely chopped garlic, fresh tarragon and a drizzle of olive oil. It was sweet and moist and satisfying. The locally caught fish was very fresh and very delicious.

Black sea bass with bone is available in sizes ranging from 1 pound to jumbo, about 3 pounds plus for the whole fish. Later that week I decided to order a large black sea bass to stuff and grill whole. Tracy Kirst, of Cor-J seafood in Hampton Bays inspired me to try her herb stuffed whole fish on the grill. A cupful of mixed fresh herbs cut from my garden, chopped garlic, a whiff of hot pepper flakes, salt and pepper and olive oil stuffed into the cavity of the fish gave it great flavor when grilled whole. For serving I pulled back the skin with a table knife and lifted the succulent morsels of firm white flesh from one side of the bone. I removed the bone by lifting it from the tail end and cutting it with kitchen shears to discard. The remaining flesh was scooped off the skin on the grill side. The flavor was so remarkable I just kept scraping away the cooked pieces from the bone as well as from the cheek to savor. It is important to purchase fish from a reliable fish merchant who knows the seasonal quality of fish. Kirst clued me on how the fish, currently in local waters, was spawning into August. When the fish is done spawning they will move off shore but return in the fall. Nice to know this delectable fish will be around for awhile.

GRILLED BLACK SEA BASS FILLETS WITH TARRAGON
Aromatic branches of fresh tarragon scent the fillets before grilling. Fish on the grill is a delicate procedure. A mesh grill-rack is advisable when grilling fish fillets.
Serves 2

2 black sea bass fillets with skin on, about 6 ounces each
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
1 clove garlic finely chopped
2 tablespoons fresh tarragon leaves
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Vegetable oil to oil the grill

1. Rinse fillets and dry well with paper towel. Season fillets with remaining ingredients.

2. Prepare an open fire or preheat a gas grill to medium-high. Pour a bit of oil onto a crush of paper towel, grab the towel with tongs and swab a mesh grill-rack to coat with oil. If the rack smokes a bit it is hot enough to use.

3. Lay the fish skin-side down on the oiled grill and tent with foil, shiny side up. Allow 4 minutes for every half-inch of thickness at the fillets thickest point and cook until the flesh is opaque. Remove foil to check doneness and be careful not to overcook. Carefully lift fish from the grill with a wide fish spatula and serve.

GRILLED WHOLE BLACK SEA BASS WITH HERB STUFFING
Have the fish scaled and gutted, thoroughly cleaned and the head and tail left on. They say the meat near the bone is the sweetest. The same holds true for fish. A hinged grill or mesh grill-rack is necessary for ease of preparation.
Serves 4

1 whole black sea bass, about 3 1/2-4 pounds
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper
3-4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2/3 cupful mixed fresh herbs - basil, rosemary, thyme, parsley, chives
1 large shallot, finely chopped
1 large clove garlic, finely chopped
2-3 pinches dried hot pepper
Squeeze of lemon (optional)

1. I bring my fish home from the market in a bag of crushed ice. If the fish is put into a plastic bag, I tear open the plastic but lay the fish on it over the ice in the coldest part of the refrigerator. I'll cook the fish within a day of purchase. When ready to cook rinse and dry fish very well with paper towel. With a sharp paring knife cut 2-3 diagonal incisions through the skin of the fish on both sides. (This is important for the fish to cook through properly.) Salt and pepper fish inside and out and film with 1 tablespoon olive oil.

2. In a mixing bowl combine the herbs in any available assortment you have. If you are missing an herb or two don't let that keep you from preparing the fish. Just be sure they're fresh. Add chopped shallot, garlic, pepper flakes, salt and pepper and remaining olive oil. Stuff the mixture into cavity and mouth of the fish.

3. Prepare an open fire or preheat a gas grill to medium-high. Coat hinged grill or mesh grill rack with oil. Put the fish in the hinged grill and secure closed or lay directly on the mesh grill. Place about 3 inches from source of heat and cook about 15 minutes on each side, turning halfway. Fish is done when the flesh is opaque - which you can see through the incisions - and the skin is crisp.

4. Transfer fish to a warm platter, scrape off the skin with a kitchen knife and scoop up the flesh. Lift the bone off the fish at the tail end and cut off at the other end with kitchen shears. Scoop up the remaining flesh off the bottom skin. Serve with a squeeze of lemon juice if desired.