Dan's Papers - July 20, 2007 - Over the Barrel... with Lenn Thompson

Clovis Point, one of the North Fork's newest wineries, will open its tasting room doors the first weekend in August. And, in a time when some are worried about unruly tasting room crowds, the converted 1920s potato barn promises to be a spot dedicated to wine tasting, not a gift shop. Hal Ginsburg, one of the winery's owners told me "We did not want to create a gift shop that also sells wine. We also did not want to build a bar that happens to focus on wine sales."

In 2001, Hal Ginsburg and two friends--Nasrallah Misk and another who is no longer involved in the project--bought a ten-acre farm on Main Road in Jamesport and decided to turn it into a vineyard. Jonathan and Renae Pine and Richard Frey also joined as partners and the Clovis Point label was born. They bought another, existing vineyard on Herrick's Lane in 2002 and the combined vineyards go by the name East End Vineyards.

The winery is named Clovis Point because of the sculpted stone tools found near the vineyard and that now adorn the labels. Clovis Points--the tools, not the winery--were used by Native Americans on Long Island's North Fork over 10,000 years ago.

Originally, Ginsburg and Misk, who act as the managing partners, were hoping to open their tasting room last winter, but licensing and approvals took longer than expectd. In November, Ginsburg told me "When the tasting room will open is essentially out of our hands since it is dependent on town approvals."

Now, with all of the appropriate approvals and permits in place, the group of friends is looking forward to opening their doors to the public.

Clovis Point's wines are made by John Leo of Premium Wine Group, the regions lone custom-crush facility where several wineries make their wines. Of Leo, Ginsburg has said that "(He) is extremely knowledgeable and committed to making fine wines that focus on the fruit, not simply oak and other 'winemaking tricks."

The star of the current releases is Clovis Point's 2004 Chardonnay ($13.50). Fermented mostly in stainless steel with just a little barrel-fermented chardonnay and Gewüürztraminer added, it is one of the North Forks best value whites. If shows bright pear and apple fruit, super-subtle barrel notes and nice balance at this price point. The Gewueuerztraminer brings a liveliness and spice that is interesting and refreshing. Enjoy it with a summer picnic or with appetizers. I had a glass of this recently at North Fork Table & Inn in Southold as well.

Very different in style is Clovis Point's 2004 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay ($22.50). As its label would imply, this one was fermented and aged in French oak. The nose offers vanilla-roasted apple, pear and subtle tropical aromas. Overall though, it's a bit "quiet" and austere. It might not be showing as well as it will in another year or two. Apple, pineapple and nutmeg flavors reside within medium body, but the finish is a little flat.

On the red side of things, Clovis Point's 2003 Merlot ($18.50) is a blend of three different clones of Merlot (181, 1, 314) with some cabernet franc and petit verdot blended in. I found cherries, oak and a little spiciness on the nose. It is definitely a lighter-style merlot, but it has nice berry-cherry flavors, low tannins and food-friendly acidity. I'd call this a "pizza and pasta wine" but that has negative connotations. Think of it as an everyday red that will go with a wide range of foods -- but it's certainly not a big, bold red that is going to put Clovis Point on the map. Still, it's a decent effort in a down vintage for many local wineries.

Two soon-to-be released merlots from the 2004 vintage, show promise--the 2004 Vintner's Select merlot ($27.95) in particular. 2004 was a cooler year for the region, but one that has proven underrated in my book. Elegant and subtle, it's a wine that should sell well upon its release.