Dan's Papers - July 11, 2008 - Raving Beauty By Janet Flora

You're staring at your reflection in the mirror as you sit in the chair of the hairstylist. You are here today for a new look, not just a trim. On your lap is a folder full of photos of celebrity haircuts that you like. There is one of Katie Holmes and another of Cameron Diaz. You squint and try and picture yourself with one of these haircuts. And just for a minute, if you squint hard enough, you can see yourself morph into Katie then Cameron. "While a picture is indeed worth a 1,000 words," says Carol Rosenberg, a stylist at the Oscar Blandi Salon, on Madison Avenue, in New York City "you and the stylist should understand which cut is going to work best on you before the cutting begins."

Having a particular style in mind is a great way to communicate what you like, however, Rosenberg also suggests that you discuss specific concerns with the stylist. For example, if you hate your ears showing, or don't want hair falling in your eyes, or if you always want it long enough to make a ponytail, there are some things you should make clear. And even though you may get the same cut as the picture you have brought with you, it's important to have the cut customized for the shape of your face and the texture of your hair. "You should also discuss lifestyle, if you have wavy hair and you want it to look sleek and straight like Cameron's and you're not good with a blow-dryer you might want to consider a style that does not require a lot of daily maintenance," says Rosenberg. In other words you should know exactly how much work it will take to have your hair look like the picture you have brought with you. And you might want to listen to the stylist if she tells you that you have a cowlick and no matter how much blow-drying or flat ironing you do your hair will not look picture perfect in the style you want.

Something Rosenberg insists on is always seeing the hair dry before beginning a haircut. "This," she says, "helps me see the texture of the hair, how it is falling and it's particularly useful if you're considering highlights. When the hair is dry you can determine where the lighter tones should be and how the haircut will best accentuate the color."

Rita Rudner, comedian and author recently went to Rosenberg to have her long hair cut short. "However," says Rosenberg, "it was only after talking to Rudner about the nuances of what she liked, that we both discovered what she really wanted was a medium-length cut." Rosenberg explains that when Rudner used words like movement and talked about not wanting her hair to look stiff, they both realized what would work best would be a lot of long layers and texture, which translates into not cutting the ends of the hair at a blunt angle. The end result was not a short haircut, but instead a mid-length cut that was slightly rumpled, unstructured, and playful.

Perhaps you're sitting in the stylist's chair and you are not picturing yourself like Cameron or Katie, but instead you just want a trim, or you are ready to try bangs, or you want the front of your hair cut at an angle. "Well, let that be known and be clear," says Rosenberg. "But the stylist should still see your hair before it's washed. It's easier to determine just how much length you are willing to sacrifice and how many changes your want to make."

Janet Flora writes lifestyle and beauty features, and is a former contributor to Make-up Artist and Health magazines. A creative writing teacher and fiction writer, she spends her time in New York and Sag Harbor.