Dan's Papers - July 11, 2008 - The Frisky Oyster

Seven years ago, when Dennis McDermott along with partner and executive chef, Hank Tomashevski opened this restaurant, Greenport was a very different town. Today there are upscale bijou hotels and a plethora of excellent restaurants. But when the Frisky Oyster first opened it really created a stir. I must admit to walking past the restaurant a few times before locating the modest entrance, but I am always struck by the way that a bright sunlit early evening can be transformed into a haven of coolness, with a touch of charm, soft subtle lighting that complements the tasteful décor.

From the very beginning Dennis and Hank decided to offer a short menu that changes frequently to reflect the availability of the best and freshest ingredients, locally sourced wherever possible. Their success may be measured in one way by the fact that they have never felt the need to offer a prix fixe or hold a wine dinner and from the very start this restaurant has consistently been rated very highly for its imaginative cuisine and the quality of its service,

Early on a Thursday evening, the restaurant was already half full and by the time we finished, the atmosphere was electric. Reservations are recommended, but a short wait at the elegant bar is always an option.

We started with two very dissimilar appetizers. The black mission figs were succulent and the prosciutto was a generous piece that brought out the full flavor of the figs and the arugula's slight bitterness bound everything together to make a very satisfying dish. Soft shell crabs have become one of my favorite dishes since moving here and Hank cooked the crab in a light crisp tempura and served it with an Asian slaw. The blend of tastes and textures were out of this world and I rarely remember enjoying soft shell crabs more. With crabs being in season, this is a dish not to be missed.

Just as the menu is short and well chosen, Denis has prepared a wine list to match. The Paso Robles Barrel 27, a Rhone or Languedoc type blend of viognier, marsanne and roussane had lots of citrus and floral flavors and a long clean finish that was perfect with the soft shell crab.

For the main courses Stella chose the veal chop, a beautiful piece of meat, that came perfectly cooked and full of juice with a taste that was enhanced by a very imaginative mix of orzo and a fresh corn succotash. This was a dish that we both shared and totally enjoyed.

Veal saltimbocca is one of my favorites but I had never tried the chicken version before and Hank again hit a winner with a dish that was both exquisitely tender, and full of a subtle blend of sage and citrus flavors that didn't so much 'jump in the mouth' (the literal translation of saltimbocca) but rather insinuated themselves and built on the palate. This is a dish I would have no hesitation in ordering again and Hank also managed somehow to make broccoli robe acceptable to someone who normally leaves it on the plate! With the meat course we drank a Portuguese Quinta de Carom multi varietal blend that showed just how good wine from this country that has been making wine for centuries has become.

Choosing dessert was a challenge considering the tantalizing options, but we opted for the summer berry trifle and the sponge cake. The trifle came with a good variety, but the sponge cake felt disappointingly dry considering the quality of the previous dishes.

The service was impeccable and friendly throughout, even as the restaurant became more crowded and the staff were clearly busy. Dennis and Hank are justifiably proud that so many of their wait and kitchen staff have been with them since the restaurants inception.

The success of The Frisky Oyster, (whose name was born from a brain storming session and several bottles of wine), is a testament to the power of imagination and hard work and it has more than done its share of turning Greenport into a town that now has a great reputation for good restaurants. If you really enjoy well cooked, well presented food served in a very pleasant, relaxed but professional style, then this a restaurant not to be missed.