Dan's Papers - July 13, 2007 - Silvia Lehrer's Cooking Column

Volumes have been written about oysters: the species and the varieties within the species, their different sizes and the places they come from and the names associated with their place of origin, on seeding and spawning oysters, the varying depths of natural oyster beds, the concern of polluted waters and on and on. Despite some of the hazards healthy species are still to be had.

Caution should be taken when purchasing any shellfish. And always purchase from a reputable and trusted fish dealer. Oysters and clams are often eaten raw and can be risky. I have friends who would never touch raw shellfish, but many enjoy the briny sweetness of these bivalves.

There are many delicious ways to cook clams, oysters and mussels. The simplest way to open clams and oysters are to grill them and serve with nothing more than a squeeze of lemon juice or a simple mignonette sauce of minced shallots, parsley, pepper and vinegar to enjoy them. I salivate when thinking of an oyster pan roast I had at the Grand Central Oyster Bar in Manhattan. Here is my adaptation with inspiration from James Beards American Cookery, Little Brown, 1972.

The consumption of mussels is probably greatest in Belgium where moules et frites are the national dish. Mussels can be simply steamed with lots of shallots, seasonings and white wine for a delectable dish. Take it to another level with this curried mussel recipe from Jubilee, a fine New York City restaurant.

When cooking oysters, bear in mind that they should be removed from heat just as its edges start to curl.
Serves 4-6

4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon chili sauce
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon coarse (kosher) salt
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1/4-1/2 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 cup cream or half & half
1/2 cup oyster liquor
1 pint fresh shelled oysters
Toast points*

1. In a large heavy skillet, melt butter, add seasonings and stir to mix well. Add the cream and oyster liquor and bring to the edge of a boil. Add the oysters and cook just until the edges curl, about 1 minute. Serve in cream soup bowls with toast points, dividing the oysters equally.

*For the toast points, slice firm white bread on the diagonal, as many as you like, and place on a baking sheet. Bake in a 375-degree oven for 7-8 minutes until crisp and golden brown.

This classic mussel recipe is adapted from Jubilee Restaurant in New York City where it is served with amazing frites.
Serves 6-8

8 lbs Prince Edward Island mussels
1 1/2 cups white wine, preferably chardonnay
1/2 cup minced shallots
1/2 cup coconut milk
1 bay leaf
1 sprig of thyme
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 teaspoons curry powder
1 teaspoon cumin powder
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
Pinch cayenne or to your taste
2 cups heavy cream
Juice of one lemon
2 tablespoons minced chives
Coarse (kosher) salt and freshly ground pepper

1. Scrub mussels very well with a stiff brush to remove any sand. Discard any cracked or open mussels that do not close with a slight massage of your fingertips. Pull off or scrub off their beards.

2. Place white wine, shallots, bay leaf and thyme sprig in a saucepan large enough to hold the mussels. Bring to a boil and cook until the wine is completely evaporated, about 5 minutes (watch this procedure being careful not to burn the ingredients). Add mussels, cover pan, shaking the pan occasionally, just until the mussels open about 8 to 10 minutes, then remove from heat. Strain liquid into a bowl.

3. Meanwhile place butter in a medium saucepan, add curry, cumin, turmeric and cayenne pepper and adjust heat to high. Add the coconut milk and cook for 4 minutes. Add the mussel broth, bring to a boil and reduce by half. Add heavy cream and boil 4 more minutes. Taste to adjust seasoning.

4. Pour the boiling curry sauce on the mussels; reheat a few seconds, add chives and serve.

Clams on the grill are a quick and easy appetizer. A mesh-type grill accessory over the grate will stabilize the clams while cooking. Serve with grilled crusty Italian or French bread slices to sop up their juices.
Serves 4 - 8

1 - 2 dozen cherrystone clams, scrubbed clean Grilled Italian or French bread slices, drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil Lemon quarters, optional

1. Prepare your grill until coals are ashen hot or preheat a gas grill to medium high. Place well-scrubbed clams on the grill and cook until they open, about 2-3 minutes. Clams have a self-timer, as they will open as they are done. With tongs, carefully transfer them to a serving platter, garnish with grilled bread slices and lemon quarters and serve at once.