Dan's Papers - July 3, 2009 - Review: Turtle Crossing

Ah, summer (finally). A time when life slows down and moves outside.

One of the great joys of the season is summer foods, and the first one everyone thinks about is barbecue.

But summer is also about relaxing. Doing less work. Spending more time with friends. For many people, having cookouts and dinner parties serves those goals, but for others, it interferes with the R&R.

Enter Turtle Crossing in East Hampton. It absolutely sings of summer barbecue, no fuss but plenty of muss from enjoying their barbecue ribs, chicken on the bone, and pulled barbecue brisket, pork and chicken sandwiches and platters. Turtle Crossing, owned by Nancy and Stanley Singer and in the same location on Route 27 for 10 years, has its own smokehouse in the back, where chef Arthur Wolf smokes about 80 slabs of ribs every day. All the Southwestern recipes come from Oklahoman Stanley Singer, who passed the baton to Wolf.

Turtle Crossing has introduced many new lighter menu items that would delight Atkins fans. There are "Large Plates" - entrées including a good selection of salads with protein in the form of sliced steak, Mexican grilled chicken, and chopped shrimp; "Small Plates" ($14-$18), that are easy on the wallet and the great for those opting for a normal sized portion; and at the bar, "Sharing Plates" ($10-$12) that include a great variety of tasty finger foods.

We tried a variety of offerings. Standouts were the Chili Seared Shrimp ($12) - plump, perfectly spiced shrimp stacked with corn relish and guacamole on a corn chip; and the Mini Crab Cake Sliders, that seemed to be made with no filler. Of the Small Plates, the Lobster Roll ($18) easily rivals any of its competitors farther east.

Of the Large Plates (ranging from $18 for chicken tacos to $25 for ribs) the fish tacos are a winner. Wolf gives great attention to his food. For example, the fish part of the taco is meaty chunks first marinated then lightly coated and fried. The chicken enchilada has a nice balance of flavors, the meat carrying it. And FYI, these enchiladas are not swimming in sauce - a nice change.

Now on to the ribs - the big guys - huge, meaty, on the chewy side for those who like 'em that way, with a great bacon-y-smoke flavor.

For my taste, Turtle Crossing has the corner on three barbecue essentials: black beans, coleslaw and corn bread. The slaw has a light dressing with great spice; the beans are flavor filled and firm, and the corn bread is moist and delicious.

For dessert, we tried the Key lime pie ($8) which was dense, with lime zest in the sweet/tart filling. A Mississippi Mud Pie does the trick for chocaholics: it's a thick mousse drizzled with chocolate, caramel and fresh whipped cream and a smattering of chopped pecans.

With a full bar, Turtle Crossing has a nice selection of reasonably priced wines by the glass, as well as an impressive selection of tequila, beer on tap and frozen drinks. They offer two sangrias - red and white. The white, made with chardonnay, triple sec and brandy, packs a wallop.

The restaurant is simple, casual and extremely kid friendly - at 6:00 on Saturday there was at least one kid at every table and booth in the back. (There are also smaller tables in the front by the bar, for those looking for a different type of distractions.)

Turtle Crossing offers a full catering menu and take out - in case you decide to have that cookout, without the cooking.

Turtle Crossing. Dinner every night from 5 p.m; lunch Saturday/Sunday. 221 Pantigo Road (Route 27), East Hampton. 631-324-7166.